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Archive for the ‘Mountaineering’ Category

TSA-9 Kongur (7717 m)

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Kongur is a very difficult summit, practically 8 thousand meters high. Located not far from the Muztagh-Ata summit. Mountaineering is possible only for experienced climbers.

Version 1

Day 1: Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to Naryn (380km, 6 hours). The road goes along picturesque gorges of the Internal Tien-Shan. The highest point is Dolon pass (3030m). Accommodation in yurts.

Day 2: Transfer Naryn – Torugart (200 km, 5-6 hours). Crossing Kyrgyz/Chinese border customs, and meet with Chinese partners. Transfer to Kashgar. Accommodation in the hotel.

Day 3: Transfer Kashgar – Karakul lake. Accommodation in yurts.

Day 4: Transfer Karakul lake – Base Camp.

Days 5-36: Ascent up to Kongur.

Day 37: Transfer Base Camp – Karakul lake. Accommodatiion in yurts.

Day 38: Transfer to Kashgar. City tour. Accommodation in the hotel.

Day 39: Transfer Kashgar – Torugart – Naryn. Accommodation in yurts.

Day 40: Transfer Naryn – Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.

Day 41: Transfer to the airport. Fly away from Bishkek.

Services :

All transfers; accommodation in double rooms in hotels** in Bishkek (1 day), in Kashgar (3 days), in Naryn in yurts (5-6 people in one yurt), in Base Camps in tents; full board in towns, on the way and in the Base Camps (20 days); guide-interpreter until Base Camp and back; camels for carrying luggage; ecological, road and customs duties; payment for ascent; city tour in Kashgar; visa support and check-in.

Price in Euro:

Group 4-5 pax 6-9 pax 10-13 pax 14 pax and more
Per person 2954 2817 2492 2309




SMALL PACKAGE

(Without services and meal at the BC)

Services :

All transfers, English-speaking guide (liaison officer) during all way and at the BC, camels for luggage (Karakul lake – Base Camp and back), permission for the ascent, visa support, all border documents, ecological duties.

Price in Euro:

Group 4-5 pax 6-9 pax 10-13 pax 14 pax and more
Per person 2192 1613 1364 1114

TSA-8 Muztagh-Ata (7546 m)

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Mustagh-Ata_3.JPG


Muztagata
is a summit of 7546m located in the Kun Lun range on the China territory not far from Kashgar. The summit has gentle slopes of 25-30 degrees steepness. It gives good possibility to ascend up to the summit on skies.

Day 1: Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to Naryn (380 km, 6 hours). The road goes along picturesque gorges of the Internal Tien-Shan. The maximum point – Dolon pass (3030m). Accommodation in yurts.

Day 2: Transfer Naryn – Torugart (200 km, 5-6 hours). Crossing Kyrgyz/Chinese border customs, and meet with Chinese partners. Transfer Torugart – Kashgar. Hotel.

Day 3: Transfer Kashgar – Subash. Camp.

Day 4: Transfer to the base camp near the Muztag Ata peak using camels.

Days 5-22: Ascent to Muztag Ata.

Day 23: Return to Kashgar. Hotel.

Day 24: Sightseeing around Kashgar. Hotel.

Day 25: Drive Kashgar – Torugart. Crossing Chinese/Kyrgyz border. Transfer Torugart – Naryn. Yurts.

Day 26: Drive Naryn – Bishkek. Hotel.

Day 27: Fly home.

Services :

All transfers. Double room accommodation at hotels, in double tents or in yurts at the base camp. Three meals a day during all transfers and at the Mustag-Ata base camp during 10 days. English-speaking guide, liaison officer in China. All necessary permits. Camels from Subash to the BC and back. Excursions in Kashgar. Visa supports for Kyrgyzstan and China.

Do not include : cost of high-altitude guide.

Conditions :

Every member must have ski-equipment, PIEPS, high-altitude food.

Price in EURO:

Group

6-7 pax

8-9 pax

10-11 pax

12 pax and more

Per person

2559

2301

2162

1972




SMALL PACKAGE

(without services and meal at the BC)

Services :

All transfers. Accommodation in Naryn (incl. meal) and Kashgar. English-speaking guide, liaison officer in China. Camels from Subash to the BC and back. All necessary permits. Visa support.

Price in Euro:

Group 6-7 pax 8-9 pax 10-11 pax 12-13 pax 14-15 pax
Per person 1693 1611 1397 1288 1239

TSA-7 Rock walls of Liailiak and Karavshin

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

Mountaineering

Height: about 5000 m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: June – September

That is the program for high-class alpinists, specialized on the wall-ascents.

There are some summits, which are quite different from other mountains in the lower part of the Liailiak and Karavshin rivers on the Southern Kyrgyzstan territory. They look like the mountains in South Patagonia but they are higher and have rock walls of 2 km. The mountains in the basin of the Liailiak river are more perspective for ascents: Ak-Suu 5355 m, Blok 5229 m, Iskander 5120 m. There is the highest point of this region the Piramidalnyi peak 5509 m in the basin of the Karavshin river in 30 km to the east. Near you can see mountains with rock walls. That is Asan-Usan peak and the 1000-years of Russia peak. From the base camps lead short approaches (about 5 km). Steepness is of 60-90 degrees.



Short program of the tour

Day 1 Arrival Bishkek, flight to Batken. Drive to Ozgorush village (180 km, 3-4 hours). Accommodation in tents or yurts (1800 m).
Day 2 Hike to the BC under Ak-Su peak (2400 m) during 8-10 hours. Load by horses. Accommodation in tents or yurts.
Days 3-18 Acclimatization. Climbing activities.
Day 19 Hike from BC to Ozgorush village.
Day 20 Transfer to Batken. Flight to Bishkek. Hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

Price of the full package in EURO:

Group 4 pax 5 pax 6 pax 7 pax and mopre
Per pax. 1056 990 924 898
Leader price 1056 990 650 268
Price includes: Price doesn’t include:
- Transfers, - Flight-ticket Bishkek – Batken – Bishkek (125 Euro p.p.),
- Horses to carry load to the BC and back, - Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners
- Accommodation at the hotel, 1 night, - Meal during acclimatization and ascent activities,
- Accommodation at the Base camp, - Satellite phone (by tariff),
- Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camp, - Insurance,
- Consultations on the route,
- Radio communication with the BC during the ascent,
- Douche or sauna at the Base Camp,
- All necessary permits and papers
- Guide in the way and at the BC

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 10 000.

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Batken to Ozgorush village and back by by full drive vehicle (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta or KAMAZ-Vakhta),

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), at the Base camp in camping tents with sleeping-pads or in yurts. There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camp.

Meal:

Three meals a day are in towns, during the transfers and the Base camp. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food. There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

TSA-2 Pobeda Peak (7439 m)

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

(Bishkek – Bishkek, 26 days)

Mountaineering

Height: 7439m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

Pobedy peak_5.JPGThe knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjaski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sary-Djaz and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.

Short program of the tour

Day 1 Meet at airport. Breakfast. Drive to Karakol city (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accommodation in hotel 2*. Dinner.
Day 2 After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3 Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100-4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4 After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4000 m in confluence South Inylchek glacier with Zvezdochka glacier. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent.
Day 6 After breakfast hike up along the Zvezdochka glacier to the foot of the Pobedy peak under the Dikiy pass (5-10 hours). Overnight in tents (4400 m ). Camp «1» .
Day 7 Start early in the morning. Ascent on the Dikiy pass (5200 m), 6-7 hours. Overnight in tents or in a cave . Camp «2» .
Day 8 Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m). Camp on the snow. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 9 Rock range processing, hang fixed ropes up to 6400 m, food and gear carries. Descent to the Camp «2». Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 10 Descent to the BC.
Days 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent BC – Camp «1» (4400 m ) .
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m).
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp «4» (6400-6700 m). Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 17 Ascent to the Camp «5» (6900 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 18 Ascent to the Camp «6» (7100 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 19 The attacked day. Ascent to the top (7439 m). Descent to the Camp «6» (7100 m).
Day 20 Descent to the Camp «4» (6700-6400 m).
Day 21 Descent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 22 Descent to the BC.
Day 23 Reserve day.
Day 24 Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr camp. Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at the hotel 2*.
Day 25 Transfer to Bishkek along the South shore of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at the guest-house.
Day 26 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

Price of the full package in EURO:

Group 4-6 pax 7-10 pax 11-15 pax and more
Per pax 1390 1 301 1 252
Leader price 1390 912 3 76

Price includes: - Transfers, – Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night, – Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, – Accommodation at the Base camps, – Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps, – Consultations on the route, – Fixed ropes along the route, – Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, – Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back, – Douche or sauna at the Base Camps, – All necessary permits and papers Price doesn’t include: - Satellite phone (by tariff), – Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes, – Insurance, – Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners – Porter’s services – High-altitude guide’s

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the “Maida-Adyr” Base and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

- from the “Maida-Adyr” Base Camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the “Maida-Adyr” Base camp – at the cottages (double room), at the “Inylchek” Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Pobedy peak:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 4-5 ice screws, 5-10 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (7-9 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


SMALL PACKAGE

Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

Services:

1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations to contact with the Base Camp

4) Route consultation , doctor consultation

5) Using long distant radio connection in case of emergency

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have insurance на сумму not less than Euro 10 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in Euro (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group)

Helicopter (return flight) Maida-Adyr – BC – Maida-Adyr Helicopter (one way) Without helicopter
Per person 692 512 332

Description of the route to Pobeda peak (7439 m) along

The Western Edge over Dikij pass and peak Pobeda West

Part «0-1» From the Base camp beneath the Gorklj peak the group crosses the South Inilchek glacier towards the Zvezdochka glacier. Walk along Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier) the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp is on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the Camp “1” on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5-10 hours, depends on group’s preparedness. Altitude is 4400 m.

Part «1-2» Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5 - 10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents (Camp “2”, 5200 m). The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high. So it is better to start from the camp 1 as early as possible. Difficulty is 2-4 by UIAA.

Part «2-3» From the Camp “2” (Dikij pass) a walk up the wide snow ridge to the Camp “3”, which is near the rock walls. Altitude is 5900 m – 6000 m. Overnight in tents or in cave. T here is an avalanche danger when heavy snowfall! Difficulty by UIAA – 2 .

Part «3-4» 5900-6700 m – ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 class. The steepness of the ridge is 30-40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m (Camp “4”). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances. Difficulty is 3-4 by UIAA.

Part «4-5» From the Camp “4”, higher the black rock triangle the group ascends to the peak Western Pobeda (6918 m) in 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, and class of difficulty is 2-3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “5” (6900 m). Difficulty is 4-5 by UIAA.

Part «5-6» From Western Pobeda (6918 m) to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould you can take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “6” (7100 m). Difficulty is 1 by UIAA.

Part «6-7» After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200-300 m; 3 class of difficulty), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40 degrees the group gets to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m, where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western side leave a note in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East – in the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4-8 hours walk. Difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA.

Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weather and other circumstances.

TSA-1 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) from the North

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Mountaineering

Height: 6995 m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

North-Inylchek-BC.jpgThe knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjazski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sary-Djaz turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.

Short program of the tour

Day 1 Meet at airport. Breakfast. Drive to Karakol city (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accommodation in hotel 2*. Dinner.
Day 2 After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3 Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100-4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4 After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4100 m on the moraine under north-east slope of Chapaev peak. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent.
Day 6 Start early in the morning. Hike up along the glacier under the north-east ребро of Chapaev peak. Ascent on the ребро up to 4600-4800 m. Camp “1”. Overnight in tents.
Day 7 Ascent to the Camp “2” (5600 m). Camp is in the мульда under the crosspiece between Khan-Tengri peak and Chapaev peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 8 Ascent to the Camp 3 (5800 m). Camp is on the crosspiece between Khan-Tengri peak and Chapaev peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 9 Acclimatization ascent up to 6200-6400 m, descent to the crosspiece. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 10 Descent to the BC.
Day 11 Day of rest.
Day 12 In the afternoon ascent up to the Camp 1 (4300 m).
Day 13 Start early in the morning and ascent to the crosspiece. Camp (5800 m).
Day 14 Ascent up to the Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight.
Day 15 The attacked day. Descent to 6400 m or to the crosspiece (5800 m).
Day 16 Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 17 Reserve day.
Day 18 Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr camp. Rest. Sauna.
Day 19 Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at the hotel 2*.
Day 20 Transfer to Bishkek along the South side of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at the guest house.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

Price of the full package in EURO:

Group 4-6 pax 7-10 pax 11-15 pax and more
Per pax 1242 1154 1104
Leader price 1242 806 332

Price includes: - Transfers, – Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night, – Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, – Accommodation at the Base camps, – Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps, – Consultations on the route, – Fixed ropes along the route, – Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, – Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back, – Douche or sauna at the Base Camps, – All necessary permits and papers Price doesn’t include: - Satellite phone (by tariff), – Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes, – Insurance, – Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners – Porter’s services – High-altitude guide’s services

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the “Maida-Adyr” Base and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

- from the “Maida-Adyr” Base Camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the “Maida-Adyr” Base camp – at the cottages (double room), at the “Inylchek” Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Khan-Tengri:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-4 ice screws, 4-8 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lipcare stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


SMALL PACKAGE

Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

Services:

1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations (walkie-talkie) to contact with the BC

4) Route consultation, doctor’s consultation

5) Using long distance connection (SW-radio) in emergency cases

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 10 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in Euro (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group):

Helicopter (return flight) Maida-Adyr – BC – Maida-Adyr Helicopter (one way) Without helicopter
Per person 692 512 332

TSA-1 Description of the route to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) from the North side

Part “0-1” : Walk to the route from the base camp on along the North Inylchek glacier to the foot of the Northeast slope of Chapaev peak. It takes 1 hour. The crevasses usually are opened, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes.

Part “1-2” : The icy-snow slope is up to 45 ° steep, 700 m. Travers to the left on snow полка to the North-east edge. Camp “1” (4600-4800 m). Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2-4.

Part “2-3” : Traverse on the horizontal shelf 40 m. Climb to the snow ridge of the North-east edge up snowy-ice wall, 50 m. Climb to the flat slopes up the snowy ridge and snowy slope, 200 m. Then on the snowy-ice wall and ridge climb to the slopes, 300 m. Further climb to the rocks up rocky wall covered with snow and ice, 200 m. On the right part of the snowy rock and “sheep’s foreheads” climb up snow ridge, 150 m. Then on snow ridge and rocks, 350 m. Climb to the plateau of the north-east edge up the right part of the rock wall, 100 m. Travers to the right, 200 m. Camp “2”. Overnight in tents or in cave.

Part “3-4” : Walk up under the rocks from the Camp “2” on along the snow ridge (200 m) and firn slope (200 m). Climb on the rock wall (40 m) and then on rock slope, alternating перемежающемуся ice and snow parts (400 m) to the плечо of the Chapaev peak (6100 m). Descent to the crosspiece on the snow range from the shoulder. Camp “3” (5800 m). Tents or cave. Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2-4.

Part “4-5” : The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5-10 ° steep. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steepness is 10-30 ° . The difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5-10 m. The difficulty is 3-4.

Part “5-6” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification) at an altitude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents. Camp “3” (6200 m or 6400 m). Difficulty 1-4 by UIAA.

Part “6-7” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep, difficulty 3-4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6750 m begins the major challenge – a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60-80 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60 ° steep, with difficulty 4 by UIAA. If it is necessary pitch Camp “4” at altitude 6700 m.

Part “7-8” : After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30-40 ° steep, with difficulty 1-2 by UIAA.

The descent takes the ascent route.

TSA-6 LENIN PEAK (7134 m)

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Alpinism: (5A)
Height: 7134m
Country: Kyrgyzstan
Dates: from 01.07 to 31.08

Lenin peak_1.JPG

Lenin Peak is situated in the northern part of Pamir in Zaalaiskij mountain range and it is considered to be one of the easiest seven-thousanders, which you can ascend without special training and high-altitude climbing experience. “Tien-Shan Travel” offers ascent of Lenin Peak from Northern side from the Achik-Tash valley.




Short program of the tour

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, flight to Osh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents or yurts.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 8-10 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 7-8 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Ascent up to the height of 6400m and descent down to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-10 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 3-4 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”(3700m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in tents and yurts.
Day 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is 7134 m. Descent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”
Day 20 Drive to Osh city. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport, flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at guesthouse.
Day 22 Transfer to the airport. Fly away from Bishkek.

The program may be changed, depends on your chosen tactics of ascent, weather conditions and itinerary condition.

Price of the full package in EURO :

Group 4 pax 5 pax 6 pax 7 pax and more
Per pax. 1012 949 886 863
Leader price 1012 949 620 259

Price includes: - Transfers – Accommodation at the guesthouse, 1 night, – Accommodation at the Base Camps, – Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base camps, – Consultations on the route – Fixed ropes along the route – Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, – Douche at the Base Camps, – All necessary permits and papers, Price doesn’t include: - Air tickets, Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (125 Euro p.p. RT) - Meal during the ascent activities – Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, and acclimatization hikes – Regular and mountaineering insurance – Satellite phone (by tariff) – Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners – Porter’s services – High-altitude guide’s services

For additional payment:

Guide services (itinerary marking, pitching intermediate camps, cooking meal during the ascent, load carries, etc. – EURO 50 per day). Satellite phone. Bar. Equipment rent.

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Osh to the Achik-Tash Camp and back by by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta or KAMAZ-Vakhta).

Accommodation:

In Bishkek and Osh accommodation at guest houses (double room), at the Achik-Tash Camp and Camp 1 (4200 m) in tents with sleeping-pads.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche and satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Lenin peak:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-3 ice screws, 3-4 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


Small package, Option 1

(Osh – Osh, 21 days)

Services:

•  All necessary documents (border permit, registration at Department of Visas (OVIR), all ecological fees)

•  Transfer from/to the airport in Osh

•  Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash and back

•  Accommodation on the territory of the “Achik-Tash-Tien-Shan” BC in your tent (using toilet, water, safeguard of the territory) up to 4 days.

•  Accommodation in the Camp (4200 m) in your tents (using toilet, water, dust hole, safeguard of the territory) up to 15 days.

•  Using radio connection (walkie-talkie) during the acclimatization and ascent activities to contact with the Camp 1

•  Route consultation

•  Using fix ropes in danger areas

•  Using electricity for charge battery

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have insurance on amount not less than Euro 10 000.

Price in Euro:

Group 1 pax 2-3 pax 4-7 pax 8-11 pax 12-16 pax
Per pax 445 290 253 233 204

Price doesn’t include flight ticket Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek. At present time ticket costs EURO 125 R.T.

Small package, Option 2

(Achik-Tash – Achik-Tash, 19 days)

Services :

•  All necessary documents (border permit, registration at Department of Visas (OVIR), all ecological fees)

2) Accommodation on the territory of the “Achik-Tash-Tien-Shan” BC in your tent (using toilet, water, safeguard of the territory) up to 4 days.

•  Accommodation in the Camp (4200 m) in your tents (using toilet, water, dust hole, safeguard of the territory) up to 15 days.

•  Using radio connection (walkie-talkie) during the acclimatization and ascent activities to contact with the Camp 1

•  Route consultation

•  Using fix ropes in danger areas

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 10 000.

Price: EURO 150 per person

Price doesn’t include flight ticket Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek. At present time ticket costs EURO 125 R.T.

TSA-6 Description of the route to Lenin peak (7134 m) along

The Western Edge through the Razdel’naya peak from the Lenin glacier

Part “0-1”: «Lukovaya glade» (3800 m) – Camp 1 (4200 m). Walk to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 m) along the good path, 1-1,5 hours. Then descent from the pass to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier (30-40 min.). There is a river that has to be passed early in the morning, while little water. If there is a lot of water (in the evening) there have to be used fixed rope. It takes 4-5 hours.

Part “1-2”: Camp 1 (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300 m). Recommended starting time is 6:00-7:00 am. Walk along the Lenin glacier ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). (Note: after snowfall you must move in bunch, because of ice crevasses ). Further is steep snow-ice slope (40-45 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary (1 hour) . The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Then gently sloping (1 5-25 ° ), but moving is only in bunch, somewhere fixed ropes, as there is wide crevasses up to 5100 m. 2-3 hours. часа . The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Traverse through the snow slope to the right ( steepness is 1 5-20 ° ). Further is table with wide crevasses. 1-2 hours. There is also better to go in bunch. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification), height is 5300 m . Pitching up the Camp 2 on the scree slope.

Part “2-3”: Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 2 is not later than 8:00 am. First there is snow-ice slope with crevasses ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary. 2-3 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Moving along the ridge towards the Razdel’naya peak (6148 m), There is a deep snow as a rule. Traverse of the peak on its left ( steepness is up to 50 ° ). 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Camp 3 (61000 m) in the saddle, beyond the Razdel’naya . This place is good for camp, but strong wind at nights, therefore it is advisable to do snow wall.

Part “3-4”: Camp 3 (6100 m) – Camp 4 (6400 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 3 is not later than 9:00 am. First on the steep (30-40 ° ) ice-rocky slope, 2-3 hours. Then along the narrow ridge up to “Nozh” (“Knife”). “Nozh” (“Knife”) passed using fixed ropes. Total time is 2-3 hours. Reach the trough, pitching the Camp 4 (6400 m). The difficulty is 2-4 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5”: Camp 4 (6400 m) – summit (7134 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 4 is not later than 9:00 am. Ascent on the easy rocky ridge ( steepness is 1 5-30 ° ) to the snow plateau (6900-7000 m); 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Further by the snow plateau ( steepness is 10 -15 ° ) reach the top of the Lenin peak; 1,5-2 hours. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification).

Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3 in the same day. Then to the BC and Achik-Tash. The descent takes 1-2 days, by the ascent route.

TSA-1 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) from the South

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Mountaineering

Height: 6995 m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

Khan-Tengri-peak.jpgThe knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Saridzhaski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan- Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.

Short program of the tour

Day 1 Meet at airport. Breakfast. Drive to Karakol city (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accommodation in hotel 2*. Dinner.
Day 2 After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3 Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100-4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4 After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4000 m in confluence South Inylchek glacier with Zvezdochka glacier. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent. In the afternoon hiking to the foot of the Khan-Tengri peak (3-4 hours). Overnight in tents (4300 m)
Day 6 Start early in the morning. Hike up along the glacier to 5300-5400 m. Camp on the plateau under crosspiece. Overnight in tents.
Day 7 Ascent to the Camp 3 (5800 m). Camp is on the crosspiece between Khan-Tengri peak and Chapaev peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 8 Acclimatization ascent up to 6200-6400 m, descent to the crosspiece. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 9 Descent to the BC.
Day 10-11 Days of rest.
Day 12 In the afternoon ascent up to the Camp 1 (4300 m).
Day 13 Start early in the morning and ascent to the crosspiece. Camp (5800 m).
Day 14 Ascent up to the Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight.
Day 15 The attacked day. Descent to 6400 m or to the crosspiece (5800 m).
Day 16 Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 17 Reserve day.
Day 18 Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr camp. Rest. Sauna.
Day 19 Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at the hotel 2*.
Day 20 Transfer to Bishkek along the South side of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at the guest house.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

Price of the full package in EURO:

Group 4-6 pax 7-10 pax 11-15 pax and more
Per pax 1242 1154 1104
Leader price 1242 806 332

Price includes: - Transfers, – Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night, – Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, – Accommodation at the Base camps, – Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps, – Consultations on the route, – Fixed ropes along the route, – Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, – Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back, – Douche or sauna at the Base Camps, – All necessary permits and papers Price doesn’t include: - Satellite phone (by tariff), – Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes, – Insurance, – Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners – Porter’s services – High-altitude guide’s services

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the “Maida-Adyr” Base and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

- from the “Maida-Adyr” Base Camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the “Maida-Adyr” Base camp – at the cottages (double room), at the “Inylchek” Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Khan-Tengri:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-4 ice screws, 4-8 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lipcare stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


SMALL PACKAGE

Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

Services:

1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations (walkie-talkie) to contact with the BC

4) Route consultation, doctor’s consultation

5) Using long distance connection (SW-radio) in emergency cases

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 10 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in Euro (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group):

Helicopter (return flight) Maida-Adyr – BC – Maida-Adyr Helicopter (one way) Without helicopter
Per person 692 512 332

Khan-Tengri peak on south-western ridge.

From Semenovski glacier

Part “0-1” : Walk to the route from the camp on the moraine beneath the Gorky peak and further on along the middle part of the South Inylchek glacier to the confluence with Semenovski glacier. There are less crevasses in the middle part of the glacier than in its edges. It takes 2-4 hours to reach the first camp (altitude – 4300 m). The average steepness is 5-10 ° . The crevasses usually are opened, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes. The first camp is on the moraine where the two glaciers, Inylchek and Semenovski, meet.

Part “1-2” : The snow covered southern slope of Semenovski glacier is 15-20 ° steep. The ascent lasts 4-6 hours. After the snowfall there is an avalanche danger. There may be icefalls from the Chapaev peak in the upper part of the ascent. The most dangerous time is between 10:00am and 14:00 pm o’clock. It is desirable to leave the first camp at 3:00-4:00 am so as to finish this section before 10:00 am. Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 1.

Part “2-3” : The icy part of Semenovski glacier is covered with many ice crevasses. The average steepness is 25-40 ° . There is a danger of icefalls. The use of crampons may be necessary depending on the snow condition. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). The ascent takes 3-5 hours.

Part “3-4” : The upper part of the glacier is shaped like a narrow long mould 5-10 ° steep. The ascent takes 2-4 hours. The camp can be made in any part of the mould. The difficulty is 1 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5” : Climb to the saddle up the snowy slope 30-50 ° steep. The bergschrund in the lower part of the slope is usually covered with snow. There are convenient places for digging caves in the lower part at the level of the bergschrund. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further on the climb proceeds from the saddle up western side.

Part “5-6” : The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5-10 ° steep. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steepness is 10-30 ° . The difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5-10 m. The difficulty is 3-4.

Part “6-7” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification) at an altitude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents.

Part “7-8” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep, difficulty 3-4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6750 m begins the major challenge – a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60-80 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60 ° steep, with difficulty 4.

Part “8-9” : After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30-40 ° steep, with difficulty 3.

The descent takes the ascent route.