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Posts Tagged ‘Lenin’

TSA-6 LENIN PEAK (7134 m)

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

FULL PACKAGE

Alpinism: (5A)
Height: 7134m
Country: Kyrgyzstan
Dates: from 01.07 to 31.08

Lenin peak_1.JPG

Lenin Peak is situated in the northern part of Pamir in Zaalaiskij mountain range and it is considered to be one of the easiest seven-thousanders, which you can ascend without special training and high-altitude climbing experience. “Tien-Shan Travel” offers ascent of Lenin Peak from Northern side from the Achik-Tash valley.




Short program of the tour

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, flight to Osh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents or yurts.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 8-10 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 7-8 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Ascent up to the height of 6400m and descent down to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-10 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 3-4 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”(3700m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in tents and yurts.
Day 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is 7134 m. Descent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”
Day 20 Drive to Osh city. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport, flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at guesthouse.
Day 22 Transfer to the airport. Fly away from Bishkek.

The program may be changed, depends on your chosen tactics of ascent, weather conditions and itinerary condition.

Price of the full package in EURO :

Group 4 pax 5 pax 6 pax 7 pax and more
Per pax. 1012 949 886 863
Leader price 1012 949 620 259

Price includes: - Transfers - Accommodation at the guesthouse, 1 night, - Accommodation at the Base Camps, - Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base camps, - Consultations on the route - Fixed ropes along the route - Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, - Douche at the Base Camps, - All necessary permits and papers, Price doesn’t include: - Air tickets, Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (125 Euro p.p. RT) - Meal during the ascent activities - Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, and acclimatization hikes - Regular and mountaineering insurance - Satellite phone (by tariff) - Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners - Porter’s services - High-altitude guide’s services

For additional payment:

Guide services (itinerary marking, pitching intermediate camps, cooking meal during the ascent, load carries, etc. – EURO 50 per day). Satellite phone. Bar. Equipment rent.

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Osh to the Achik-Tash Camp and back by by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta or KAMAZ-Vakhta).

Accommodation:

In Bishkek and Osh accommodation at guest houses (double room), at the Achik-Tash Camp and Camp 1 (4200 m) in tents with sleeping-pads.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche and satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Lenin peak:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-3 ice screws, 3-4 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


Small package, Option 1

(Osh – Osh, 21 days)

Services:

•  All necessary documents (border permit, registration at Department of Visas (OVIR), all ecological fees)

•  Transfer from/to the airport in Osh

•  Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash and back

•  Accommodation on the territory of the “Achik-Tash-Tien-Shan” BC in your tent (using toilet, water, safeguard of the territory) up to 4 days.

•  Accommodation in the Camp (4200 m) in your tents (using toilet, water, dust hole, safeguard of the territory) up to 15 days.

•  Using radio connection (walkie-talkie) during the acclimatization and ascent activities to contact with the Camp 1

•  Route consultation

•  Using fix ropes in danger areas

•  Using electricity for charge battery

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have insurance on amount not less than Euro 10 000.

Price in Euro:

Group 1 pax 2-3 pax 4-7 pax 8-11 pax 12-16 pax
Per pax 445 290 253 233 204

Price doesn’t include flight ticket Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek. At present time ticket costs EURO 125 R.T.

Small package, Option 2

(Achik-Tash – Achik-Tash, 19 days)

Services :

•  All necessary documents (border permit, registration at Department of Visas (OVIR), all ecological fees)

2) Accommodation on the territory of the “Achik-Tash-Tien-Shan” BC in your tent (using toilet, water, safeguard of the territory) up to 4 days.

•  Accommodation in the Camp (4200 m) in your tents (using toilet, water, dust hole, safeguard of the territory) up to 15 days.

•  Using radio connection (walkie-talkie) during the acclimatization and ascent activities to contact with the Camp 1

•  Route consultation

•  Using fix ropes in danger areas

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 10 000.

Price: EURO 150 per person

Price doesn’t include flight ticket Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek. At present time ticket costs EURO 125 R.T.

TSA-6 Description of the route to Lenin peak (7134 m) along

The Western Edge through the Razdel’naya peak from the Lenin glacier

Part “0-1”: «Lukovaya glade» (3800 m) – Camp 1 (4200 m). Walk to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 m) along the good path, 1-1,5 hours. Then descent from the pass to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier (30-40 min.). There is a river that has to be passed early in the morning, while little water. If there is a lot of water (in the evening) there have to be used fixed rope. It takes 4-5 hours.

Part “1-2”: Camp 1 (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300 m). Recommended starting time is 6:00-7:00 am. Walk along the Lenin glacier ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). (Note: after snowfall you must move in bunch, because of ice crevasses ). Further is steep snow-ice slope (40-45 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary (1 hour) . The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Then gently sloping (1 5-25 ° ), but moving is only in bunch, somewhere fixed ropes, as there is wide crevasses up to 5100 m. 2-3 hours. часа . The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Traverse through the snow slope to the right ( steepness is 1 5-20 ° ). Further is table with wide crevasses. 1-2 hours. There is also better to go in bunch. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification), height is 5300 m . Pitching up the Camp 2 on the scree slope.

Part “2-3”: Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 2 is not later than 8:00 am. First there is snow-ice slope with crevasses ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary. 2-3 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Moving along the ridge towards the Razdel’naya peak (6148 m), There is a deep snow as a rule. Traverse of the peak on its left ( steepness is up to 50 ° ). 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Camp 3 (61000 m) in the saddle, beyond the Razdel’naya . This place is good for camp, but strong wind at nights, therefore it is advisable to do snow wall.

Part “3-4”: Camp 3 (6100 m) – Camp 4 (6400 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 3 is not later than 9:00 am. First on the steep (30-40 ° ) ice-rocky slope, 2-3 hours. Then along the narrow ridge up to “Nozh” (“Knife”). “Nozh” (“Knife”) passed using fixed ropes. Total time is 2-3 hours. Reach the trough, pitching the Camp 4 (6400 m). The difficulty is 2-4 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5”: Camp 4 (6400 m) – summit (7134 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 4 is not later than 9:00 am. Ascent on the easy rocky ridge ( steepness is 1 5-30 ° ) to the snow plateau (6900-7000 m); 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Further by the snow plateau ( steepness is 10 -15 ° ) reach the top of the Lenin peak; 1,5-2 hours. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification).

Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3 in the same day. Then to the BC and Achik-Tash. The descent takes 1-2 days, by the ascent route.