(Bishkek – Bishkek, 26 days)

Mountaineering

Height: 7439m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjaski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sary-Djaz and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.

Short program of the tour

Price of the full package in EURO:

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

- from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the “Maida-Adyr” Base and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

- from the “Maida-Adyr” Base Camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the “Maida-Adyr” Base camp – at the cottages (double room), at the “Inylchek” Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Pobedy peak:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 4-5 ice screws, 5-10 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (7-9 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.

SMALL PACKAGE

Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

Services:

1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations to contact with the Base Camp

4) Route consultation , doctor consultation

5) Using long distant radio connection in case of emergency

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have insurance на сумму not less than Euro 10 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in Euro (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group)

Description of the route to Pobeda peak (7439 m) along

The Western Edge over Dikij pass and peak Pobeda West

Part «0-1» From the Base camp beneath the Gorklj peak the group crosses the South Inilchek glacier towards the Zvezdochka glacier. Walk along Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier) the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp is on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the Camp “1” on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5-10 hours, depends on group’s preparedness. Altitude is 4400 m.

Part «1-2» Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5 - 10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents (Camp “2”, 5200 m). The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high. So it is better to start from the camp 1 as early as possible. Difficulty is 2-4 by UIAA.

Part «2-3» From the Camp “2” (Dikij pass) a walk up the wide snow ridge to the Camp “3”, which is near the rock walls. Altitude is 5900 m – 6000 m. Overnight in tents or in cave. T here is an avalanche danger when heavy snowfall! Difficulty by UIAA – 2 .

Part «3-4» 5900-6700 m – ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 class. The steepness of the ridge is 30-40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m (Camp “4”). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances. Difficulty is 3-4 by UIAA.

Part «4-5» From the Camp “4”, higher the black rock triangle the group ascends to the peak Western Pobeda (6918 m) in 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, and class of difficulty is 2-3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “5” (6900 m). Difficulty is 4-5 by UIAA.

Part «5-6» From Western Pobeda (6918 m) to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould you can take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “6” (7100 m). Difficulty is 1 by UIAA.

Part «6-7» After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200-300 m; 3 class of difficulty), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40 degrees the group gets to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m, where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western side leave a note in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East – in the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4-8 hours walk. Difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA.

Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weather and other circumstances.