Ascent to Khan-Tengri from the Northern Inylchek glacier




Height: 7010 m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

Khan Tengri Northern Base Camp 1The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjazski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sary-Djaz turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.


Short program of the tour


Day 1 Meet at airport. Breakfast. Drive to Karakol city (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accommodation in hotel 2*. Dinner.
Day 2 After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3 Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100-4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4 After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4100 m on the moraine under north-east slope of Chapaev peak. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent.
Day 6 Start early in the morning. Hike up along the glacier under the north-east ребро of Chapaev peak. Ascent on the ребро up to 4600-4800 m. Camp “1”. Overnight in tents.
Day 7 Ascent to the Camp “2” (5600 m). Camp is in the мульда under the crosspiece between Khan-Tengri peak and Chapaev peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 8 Ascent to the Camp 3 (5800 m). Camp is on the crosspiece between Khan-Tengri peak and Chapaev peak. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 9 Acclimatization ascent up to 6200-6400 m, descent to the crosspiece. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 10 Descent to the BC.
Day 11 Day of rest.
Day 12 In the afternoon ascent up to the Camp 1 (4300 m).
Day 13 Start early in the morning and ascent to the crosspiece. Camp (5800 m).
Day 14 Ascent up to the Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight.
Day 15 The attacked day. Descent to 6400 m or to the crosspiece (5800 m).
Day 16 Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 17 Reserve day.
Day 18 Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr camp. Rest. Sauna.
Day 19 Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at the hotel 2*.
Day 20 Transfer to Bishkek along the South side of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at the guest house.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

Price of the full package in USD:

Group 4-6 pax 7-10 pax 11-15 pax and more
Per pax 2220 2090 2020
Leader price 2220 1460 610


Price includes: – Transfers, – Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night, – Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights, – Accommodation at the Base camps, – Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps, – Consultations on the route, – Fixed ropes along the route, – Radio communication with the BC during the ascent, – Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back, – Douche or sauna at the Base Camps, – All necessary permits and papers Price doesn’t include: – Satellite phone (by tariff), – Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes, – Insurance, – Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners – Porter’s services – High-altitude guide’s services

Important note: Khan-Tengri price has increased, as starting from 2018 the payment (permit)  is required  for the ascent to the Khan-Tengri peak and other peaks on the Inylchek glacier with a height over 6000 m.

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.



Transfers are:

– from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the “Maida-Adyr” Base and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

– from the “Maida-Adyr” Base Camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.


In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the “Maida-Adyr” Base camp – at the cottages (double room), at the “Inylchek” Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.


Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Khan TengriPersonal and special gear to climb Khan-Tengri:


Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-4 ice screws, 4-8 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lipcare stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.


Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr


1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations (walkie-talkie) to contact with the BC

4) Route consultation, doctor’s consultation

5) Using long distance connection (SW-radio) in emergency cases

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than Euro 20 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in USD (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group):

  Helicopter (return flight) Maida-Adyr – BC – Maida-Adyr Helicopter (one way) Without helicopter
Per person 1310 1070 890


TSA-1 Description of the route to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) from the North side

Part “0-1” : Walk to the route from the base camp on along the North Inylchek glacier to the foot of the Northeast slope of Chapaev peak. It takes 1 hour. The crevasses usually are opened, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes.

Part “1-2” : The icy-snow slope is up to 45 ° steep, 700 m. Travers to the left on snow полка to the North-east edge. Camp “1” (4600-4800 m). Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2-4.

Part “2-3” : Traverse on the horizontal shelf 40 m. Climb to the snow ridge of the North-east edge up snowy-ice wall, 50 m. Climb to the flat slopes up the snowy ridge and snowy slope, 200 m. Then on the snowy-ice wall and ridge climb to the slopes, 300 m. Further climb to the rocks up rocky wall covered with snow and ice, 200 m. On the right part of the snowy rock and “sheep’s foreheads” climb up snow ridge, 150 m. Then on snow ridge and rocks, 350 m. Climb to the plateau of the north-east edge up the right part of the rock wall, 100 m. Travers to the right, 200 m. Camp “2”. Overnight in tents or in cave.

Part “3-4” : Walk up under the rocks from the Camp “2” on along the snow ridge (200 m) and firn slope (200 m). Climb on the rock wall (40 m) and then on rock slope, alternating перемежающемуся ice and snow parts (400 m) to the плечо of the Chapaev peak (6100 m). Descent to the crosspiece on the snow range from the shoulder. Camp “3” (5800 m). Tents or cave. Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2-4.

Part “4-5” : The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5-10 ° steep. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steepness is 10-30 ° . The difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5-10 m. The difficulty is 3-4.

Part “5-6” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification) at an altitude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents. Camp “3” (6200 m or 6400 m). Difficulty 1-4 by UIAA.

Part “6-7” : The rocky ridge 45-55 ° steep, difficulty 3-4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6750 m begins the major challenge – a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60-80 ° steep. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60 ° steep, with difficulty 4 by UIAA. If it is necessary pitch Camp “4” at altitude 6700 m.

Part “7-8” : After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30-40 ° steep, with difficulty 1-2 by UIAA.

The descent takes the ascent route.

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