Ascent to Lenin Peak (Ibn Sina)

 

Alpinism: (5A)
Height: 7134m
Country: Kyrgyzstan
Dates: from 01.07 to 31.08

Lenin_peak

Lenin Peak (a.k.a Ibn Sina Peak) is situated in the northern part of Pamir in Zaalaiskij mountain range and it is considered to be one of the easiest seven-thousanders, which you can ascend without special training and high-altitude climbing experience. “Tien-Shan Travel” offers ascent of Lenin Peak from Northern side from the Achik-Tash valley.

 

 

 

Description of the tour

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, flight to Osh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents or yurts.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 8-10 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 7-8 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Ascent up to the height of 6400m and descent down to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-10 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 3-4 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”(3700m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in tents and yurts.
Day 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is 7134 m. Descent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”
Day 20 Drive to Osh city. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport, flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at guesthouse.
Day 22 Transfer to the airport. Fly away from Bishkek.

The program may be changed, depends on your chosen tactics of ascent, weather conditions and itinerary condition.

 

Learn more about Our Packages to Lenin Peak 

 

Information for tourist 

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

from Osh to the Achik-Tash Camp and back by full drive vehicles (“Delica”, Jeep and minibus).

Accommodation:

In Bishkek and Osh accommodation at guest houses (double room), at the Achik-Tash Camp and Camp 1 (4200 m) in tents with sleeping-pads.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche and satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Base camp 2 at Lenin peakPersonal and special gear to climb Lenin peak:

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 2-3 ice screws, 3-4 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5-7 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, , cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.

 

TSA-6 Description of the route to Lenin peak (7134 m) along

the Western Edge through the Razdel’naya peak from the Lenin glacier

Part “0-1”: «Lukovaya glade» (3800 m) – Camp 1 (4200 m). Walk to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 m) along the good path, 1-1,5 hours. Then descent from the pass to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier (30-40 min.). There is a river that has to be passed early in the morning, while little water. If there is a lot of water (in the evening) there have to be used fixed rope. It takes 4-5 hours.

Part “1-2”: Camp 1 (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300 m). Recommended starting time is 6:00-7:00 am. Walk along the Lenin glacier ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). (Note: after snowfall you must move in bunch, because of ice crevasses ). Further is steep snow-ice slope (40-45 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary (1 hour) . The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Then gently sloping (1 5-25 ° ), but moving is only in bunch, somewhere fixed ropes, as there is wide crevasses up to 5100 m. 2-3 hours. часа . The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Traverse through the snow slope to the right ( steepness is 1 5-20 ° ). Further is table with wide crevasses. 1-2 hours. There is also better to go in bunch. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification), height is 5300 m . Pitching up the Camp 2 on the scree slope.

Part “2-3”: Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 2 is not later than 8:00 am. First there is snow-ice slope with crevasses ( steepness is 5-10 ° ). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary. 2-3 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Moving along the ridge towards the Razdel’naya peak (6148 m), There is a deep snow as a rule. Traverse of the peak on its left ( steepness is up to 50 ° ). 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Camp 3 (61000 m) in the saddle, beyond the Razdel’naya . This place is good for camp, but strong wind at nights, therefore it is advisable to do snow wall.

Part “3-4”: Camp 3 (6100 m) – Camp 4 (6400 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 3 is not later than 9:00 am. First on the steep (30-40 ° ) ice-rocky slope, 2-3 hours. Then along the narrow ridge up to “Nozh” (“Knife”). “Nozh” (“Knife”) passed using fixed ropes. Total time is 2-3 hours. Reach the trough, pitching the Camp 4 (6400 m). The difficulty is 2-4 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5”: Camp 4 (6400 m) – summit (7134 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 4 is not later than 9:00 am. Ascent on the easy rocky ridge ( steepness is 1 5-30 ° ) to the snow plateau (6900-7000 m); 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Further by the snow plateau ( steepness is 10 -15 ° ) reach the top of the Lenin peak; 1,5-2 hours. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification).

Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp 3 in the same day. Then to the BC and Achik-Tash. The descent takes 1-2 days, by the ascent route.

Ascent to the peak is also possible in combination with a Ski tour. This would require clients to have a previous experience in high-altitude skiing. Our guides in Camp 1 give all the consultations about the possible itineraries for skiing from the very top of the mount.

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