Pobeda Peak

 

FULL PACKAGE

(Bishkek – Bishkek, 26 days)

 Mountaineering

Height: 7439m

Country: Kyrgyzstan

Dates: from 01.07 to 30.08

The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjaski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sary-Djaz and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.

Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.

 

Short program of the tour

 

Day 1 Meet at airport. Breakfast. Drive to Karakol city (420 km, 8-10 hours) along the north lakeside of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accommodation in hotel 2*. Dinner.
Day 2 After breakfast drive to BC Maida-Adyr 160 km, 4-6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accommodation in cottages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3 Day at Maida-Adyr. Acclimatization hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100-4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4 After breakfast helicopter transfer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is situated at the height of 4000 m in confluence South Inylchek glacier with Zvezdochka glacier. Accommodation at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation to the ascent.
Day 6 After breakfast hike up along the Zvezdochka glacier to the foot of the Pobedy peak under the Dikiy pass (5-10 hours). Overnight in tents (4400 m ). Camp «1» .
Day 7 Start early in the morning. Ascent on the Dikiy pass (5200 m), 6-7 hours. Overnight in tents or in a cave . Camp «2» .
Day 8 Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m). Camp on the snow. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 9 Rock range processing, hang fixed ropes up to 6400 m, food and gear carries. Descent to the Camp «2». Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 10 Descent to the BC.
Days 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent BC – Camp «1» (4400 m ) .
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m).
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp «4» (6400-6700 m). Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 17 Ascent to the Camp «5» (6900 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 18 Ascent to the Camp «6» (7100 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 19 The attacked day. Ascent to the top (7439 m). Descent to the Camp «6» (7100 m).
Day 20 Descent to the Camp «4» (6700-6400 m).
Day 21 Descent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 22 Descent to the BC.
Day 23 Reserve day.
Day 24 Helicopter transfer to the Maida-Adyr camp. Transfer to Karakol. Accommodation at the hotel 2*.
Day 25 Transfer to Bishkek along the South shore of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accommodation at the guest-house.
Day 26 Transfer to the airport. Fly home.

 

Price of the full package in EURO:

Group 4-6 pax 7-10 pax 11-15 pax and more
Per pax 1790 1670 1610
Leader price 1790 1160 480

 

Price includes:

– Transfers,

– Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night,

– Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights,

– Accommodation at the Base camps,

– Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps,

– Consultations on the route,

– Fixed ropes along the route,

– Radio communication with the BC during the ascent,

– Helicopter transfer from the Maida-Adyr camp to the Inylchek BC and back,

– Shower or sauna at the Base Camps,

– All necessary permits and papers

Price doesn’t include:

– Satellite phone (by tariff),

– Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes,

– Insurance*,

– Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners,

– Porter’s services,

– High-altitude guide’s

*  All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than EUR 20 000.

For your INFORMATION

Necessary papers:

Kyrgyz visa. Registration in OVIR. Border permit. To arrange border permit we need the following details not later than 3 weeks before arrival: full name, date of birth, passport No, citizenship.

Transport:

Transfers are:

– from Bishkek to Karakol and back by comfortable cars, minibuses or buses depending on number of tourist in a group, – from Karakol to the Maida-Adyr Camp and back by full drive vehicles (“NIVA”, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta),

– from the Maida-Adyr Camp to the Inylchek BC and back by helicopter Mi8-MTV.

Accommodation:

In Bishkek accommodation is at the guest house (double room), in Karakol – at the hotel 2* (double room), at the Maida-Adyr Camp – at the cottages (double room), in the Inylchek Base Camp – in camping tents with sleeping-pads on wooden platform.

There is electricity 220V, 50Hz, toilet, douche or sauna, satellite phone at the Base Camps.

Meal:

Three meals a day in towns, during the transfers and the base camps. During acclimatization and climbing activities clients must have their own high-altitude food.

There is possibility to buy high-altitude food at the Base Camp according to the advance order.

Personal and special gear to climb Pobedy peak

Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to -30 С ), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 4-5 ice screws, 5-10 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1-2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (7-9 balloons), head burner.

Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker ( капрон , gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T-shirts, 4 shirts, 2-3 sport pants (track pants), 3-4 pairs of cotton socks, 3-4 pairs of wool socks, 3-4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.

 

SMALL PACKAGE (Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr)

Services:

1) All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)

2) Pitching tents on the territory of the Maida-Adyr Camp and Inylchek BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole , safeguard of territory )

3) Using USW-radio stations to contact with the Base Camp

4) Route consultation , doctor consultation

5) Using long distant radio connection in case of emergency

6) Using fixed ropes

All expenses for the rescue activities shall be covered by the client’s insurance policy. Every client must have amount of insurance not less than EUR 20 000.

Pitching up tents at the BC and using USW radio stations is necessary.

Price in Euro (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group)

Helicopter (return flight) Maida-Adyr – BC – Maida-Adyr Helicopter (one way) Without helicopter
Per person 880 670 460

 

Description of the route to Pobeda peak (7439 m) along The Western Edge over Dikij pass and peak Pobeda West

Part «0-1» From the Base camp beneath the Gorklj peak the group crosses the South Inilchek glacier towards the Zvezdochka glacier. Walk along Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier) the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp is on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the Camp “1” on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5-10 hours, depends on group’s preparedness. Altitude is 4400 m.

Part «1-2» Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5 10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents (Camp “2”, 5200 m). The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high. So it is better to start from the camp 1 as early as possible. Difficulty is 2-4 by UIAA.

Part «2-3» From the Camp “2” (Dikij pass) a walk up the wide snow ridge to the Camp “3”, which is near the rock walls. Altitude is 5900 m – 6000 m. Overnight in tents or in cave. T here is an avalanche danger when heavy snowfall! Difficulty by UIAA – 2 .

Part «3-4» 5900-6700 m – ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 class. The steepness of the ridge is 30-40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m (Camp “4”). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances. Difficulty is 3-4 by UIAA.

Part «4-5» From the Camp “4”, higher the black rock triangle the group ascends to the peak Western Pobeda (6918 m) in 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, and class of difficulty is 2-3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “5” (6900 m). Difficulty is 4-5 by UIAA.

Part «5-6» From Western Pobeda (6918 m) to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould you can take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “6” (7100 m). Difficulty is 1 by UIAA.

Part «6-7» After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200-300 m; 3 class of difficulty), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40 degrees the group gets to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m, where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western side leave a note in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East – in the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4-8 hours walk. Difficulty is 2-3 by UIAA.

Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weather and other circumstances.

 

 

Comments are closed.