Pobeda Peak

Loca­tion: Kyr­gyzs­tan
Sea­son: July 1 — August 30
Deys: 26
Height: 7439 м
Dif­fi­cul­ty: 5B

Options for ser­vice pack­ages:
Full pack­age:
from $2020 USD per per­son.
Small pack­age:
from $890 USD per per­son.

The knot of the mas­sive ranges Kok­shaal-Too, Merid­ion­al­ni, Sary­d­jas­ki, Ten­gri-Tag, Inylchek­s­ki and Kaiyindy has the name Muz­tag (The Ice Moun­tain). The cli­mate is sharply con­ti­nen­tal, dry and rig­or­ous. The sum­mer is short, aver­age tem­per­a­ture of about 7 centi­grade. The region is called “The Arc­tic of Kyr­gyzs­tan”, though Cen­tral Tien-Shan is sit­u­at­ed in the same lat­i­tude as the Mediter­ranean Sea. The glac­i­ers falling from Muz­tag to the west make full rivers Sary-Djaz and its trib­u­taries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to Chi­na to the Tarim val­ley.

Inylchek glac­i­er is a great ice riv­er 62 km long. The most north­ern, most dif­fi­cult ascent in the world is the sev­en-thou­sander Pobe­da peak (7439 m), which ris­es above the left trib­u­tary of Inylchek glac­i­er – Zvy­oz­dochka glac­i­er. Oppo­site it in the Ten­gri-Tag range the mar­mo­re­al pyra­mid of one of the most beau­ti­ful sum­mits on the earth Khan-Ten­gri peak (7010 m) ris­es as if it soars in the sky.

Gallery

The program of the tour “Climbing the Pobeda Peak”

Day 1
Meet at air­port. Break­fast. Dri­ve to Karakol city (420 km, 8–10 hours) along the north lake­side of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accom­mo­da­tion in hotel 2*. Din­ner.
Day 2
After break­fast dri­ve to BC Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara) 160 km, 4–6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accom­mo­da­tion in cot­tages of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3
Day at Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara). Acclima­ti­za­tion hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100–4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4
After break­fast heli­copter trans­fer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is sit­u­at­ed at the height of 4000 m in con­flu­ence South Inylchek glac­i­er with Zvez­dochka glac­i­er. Accom­mo­da­tion at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5
Acclima­ti­za­tion, prepa­ra­tion to the ascent.
Day 6
After break­fast hike up along the Zvez­dochka glac­i­er to the foot of the Pobedy peak under the Dikiy pass (5–10 hours). Overnight in tents (4400 m). Camp «1».
Day 7
Start ear­ly in the morn­ing. Ascent on the Dikiy pass (5200 m), 6–7 hours. Overnight in tents or in a cave. Camp «2».
Day 8
Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m). Camp on the snow. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 9
Rock range pro­cess­ing, hang fixed ropes up to 6400 m, food and gear car­ries. Descent to the Camp «2». Overnight in tents or in cave.
Day 10
Descent to the BC.
Day 11–12
Days of rest.
Day 13
Ascent BC – Camp «1» (4400 m).
Day 14
Ascent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 15
Ascent to the Camp «3» (5900 m).
Day 16
Ascent to the Camp «4» (6400–6700 m). Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 17
Ascent to the Camp «5» (6900 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 18
Ascent to the Camp «6» (7100 m). Overnight in tents.
Day 19
The attacked day. Ascent to the top (7439 m). Descent to the Camp «6» (7100 m).
Day 20
Descent to the Camp «4» (6700–6400 m).
Day 21
Descent to the Camp «2» (5200 m).
Day 22
Descent to the BC.
Day 23
Reserve day.
Day 24
Heli­copter trans­fer to the Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara) camp. Trans­fer to Karakol. Accom­mo­da­tion at the hotel 2*.
Day 25
Trans­fer to Bishkek along the South shore of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accom­mo­da­tion at the guest-house.
Day 26
Trans­fer to the air­port. Fly home.
The pro­gram may vary depend­ing on your cho­sen climb­ing tac­tics, weath­er con­di­tions and route con­di­tions.

The price of the Full package “Climbing Pobeda Peak” in USD

Group (per­son)
4–6
7–10
11–15 and more
Per per­son
2220
2090
2020
For the leader
2220
1460
610

The program price includes:

- Trans­fers
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the guest house, 1 night
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the hotel, 2 nights
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the Base camps
— Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps
— Con­sul­ta­tions on the route
— Fixed ropes along the route
— Radio com­mu­ni­ca­tion with the BC dur­ing the ascent
— Heli­copter trans­fer from “Mai­da-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back,
— Douche or sauna at the Base Camps
— All nec­es­sary per­mits and papers

Price doesn’t include:

- Satel­lite phone (by tar­iff)
— Meal dur­ing the ascent activ­i­ties and acclima­ti­za­tion hikes
— Insur­ance
— Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burn­ers
— Porter’s ser­vices
— High-alti­tude guide’s
— Inter­net ser­vices (Wi-Fi — $ 5 per hour)

All expens­es for the res­cue activ­i­ties shall be cov­ered by the client’s insur­ance pol­i­cy. Every client must have amount of insur­ance not less than $30000 USA.

The price of the Small package “Climbing Pobeda Peak” (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group) in USD

When fly­ing on a pass­ing flight of a heli­copter
Heli­copter (return flight) Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara)– BC – Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara)
Heli­copter one-way, car­go up to 30 kg
With­out heli­copter
Per per­son
1310
1070
890
Pay­ment for excess car­go: $5 USD per 1 kg.

The program price includes:

- All nec­es­sary doc­u­ments (bor­der per­mit, OVIR reg­is­tra­tion)
— Pitch­ing tents on the ter­ri­to­ry of the “Mai­da-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, elec­tric­i­ty, toi­let, dust hole, safe­guard of ter­ri­to­ry)
— Using USW-radio sta­tions to con­tact with the Base Camp
— Route con­sul­ta­tion, doc­tor con­sul­ta­tion
— Using long dis­tant radio con­nec­tion in case of emer­gency
— Using fixed ropes

All expens­es for the res­cue activ­i­ties shall be cov­ered by the client’s insur­ance pol­i­cy. Every client must have amount of insur­ance not less than $30000 USA.
Camp­ing tents and the use of VHF radio com­mu­ni­ca­tion is manda­to­ry.

Description of the route to Pobedy peak (7439 m) along the western ridge through Lane Wild and Peak Pobeda West

Part of the track «0–1»

From the Base camp beneath the Gorklj peak the group cross­es the South Inilchek glac­i­er towards the Zvez­dochka glac­i­er. Walk along Zvez­dochka East­ern lat­er­al moraine till the bend of the glac­i­er. Before the ice­fall (a small bend of the glac­i­er) the group reach­es the mid­dle part of the glac­i­er and takes the right turn towards Dik­ij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dik­ij pass. While pitch­ing the camp is on alert: there is an avalanche dan­ger from the Dik­ij pass and ice falls from the North­ern wall of Pobe­da Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gork­ij peak to the Camp “1” on the Zvez­dochka glac­i­er beneath the Dik­ij pass is 5–10 hours, depends on group’s pre­pared­ness. Alti­tude is 4400 m.

Part of the track «1–2»

Ascent to the Dik­ij pass. A walk up the slope to the ice­fall is 1 hour, along the ice­fall 2–4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hang­ing glac­i­er beneath the Dik­ij pass. A walk along the glac­i­er (5–10 degrees) to the Dik­ij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30–40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is pos­si­ble to make a snow hole and pitch tents (Camp “2”, 5200 m). The most dif­fi­cult and dan­ger­ous part of this route is an ice­fall and ice walls 20 m high. So it is bet­ter to start from the camp 1 as ear­ly as pos­si­ble. Dif­fi­cul­ty is 2–4 by UIAA.

Part of the track «2–3»

From the Camp “2” (Dik­ij pass) a walk up the wide snow ridge to the Camp “3”, which is near the rock walls. Alti­tude is 5900 m — 6000 m. Overnight in tents or in cave. There is an avalanche dan­ger when heavy snow­fall! Dif­fi­cul­ty by UIAA – 2.

Part of the track «3–4»

5900–6700 m — ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3–4 class of dif­fi­cul­ty, snow-ice places are of 2–3 class. The steep­ness of the ridge is 30–40 degrees. There are good places for pitch­ing tents after first rock zone at an alti­tude 6000–6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” tri­an­gle at an alti­tude 6600 m and high­er 6700 m (Camp “4”). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depend­ing on weath­er and oth­er cir­cum­stances. Dif­fi­cul­ty is 3–4 by UIAA.

Part of the track «4–5»

From the Camp “4”, high­er the black rock tri­an­gle the group ascends to the peak West­ern Pobe­da (6918 m) in 4–8 hours, the steep­ness is 15–20 degrees, and class of dif­fi­cul­ty is 2–3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is bet­ter to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the South­west­ern sum­mits of the West­ern Pobe­da. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “5” (6900 m). Dif­fi­cul­ty is 4–5 by UIAA.

Part of the track «5–6»

From West­ern Pobe­da (6918 m) to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4–6 hours). Cor­nices and ice crevass­es are pos­si­ble. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould you can take a shel­ter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “6” (7100 m). Dif­fi­cul­ty is 1 by UIAA.

Part of the track «6–7»

After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200–300 m; 3 class of dif­fi­cul­ty), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steep­ness of 20–40 degrees the group gets to the sum­mit. The sum­mit resem­bles a dome of 200–250 m, where it is dif­fi­cult to deter­mine the high­est point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the west­ern side leave a note in the west­ern part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East — in the East­ern part. From “Obelisk” to the sum­mit is 4–8 hours walk. Dif­fi­cul­ty is 2–3 by UIAA.

Descent along the ascent path

Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weath­er and oth­er cir­cum­stances.

Personal and special gear to climb Pobeda Peak

Spe­cial gear: back­pack (not less than 80 liters), sleep­ing pad, sleep­ing bag (up to ‑30 С), high-alti­tude tent, plas­tic dou­ble boots, cram­pons, ice-axe, cara­bin­er, har­ness, 4–5 ice screws, 5–10 hard­ware, Friends, jumar, 1–2 ropes (5 m long), hel­met, camp­ing gas (7–9 bal­loons), head burn­er.

Per­son­al things: jack­et-wind­break­er and pants-wind­break­er (капрон, gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or wind­blok), T‑shirts, 4 shirts, 2–3 sport pants (track pants), 3–4 pairs of cot­ton socks, 3–4 pairs of wool socks, 3–4 sets of under­wear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jack­et (down par­ka), warm pants, mit­tens or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equip­ment: sun glass­es – 2 pairs head­lamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, cup, spoon, bowl, knife, tow­el, soap, tooth brush and paste, per­son­al first aid kit.

Additional Information

Required documents

Visas. For cit­i­zens of the CIS coun­tries (except Turk­menistan) a visa to Kyr­gyzs­tan is not need­ed, but a pass­port is required. For cit­i­zens of Rus­sia, a visa is also not required, the pass­port is suit­able for both for­eign and gen­er­al civil­ian (inter­nal). Upon arrival in Kyr­gyzs­tan, tourists from the CIS must reg­is­ter with the Min­istry of Inter­nal Affairs.

For cit­i­zens of Rus­sia and Kaza­khstan, reg­is­tra­tion up to 90 days is not required, for oth­er cit­i­zens of the CIS up to 60 days.

Transport

Mov­ing is car­ried out:

From Bishkek to Karakol and back in com­fort­able cars, minibus­es or bus­es, depend­ing on the num­ber of peo­ple in the group; from Karakol to the base camp of Mai­da-Adyr and back on all-wheel dri­ve vehi­cles Niva, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta. Flight from the Mai­da-Adyr base camp to the Inylchek base camp and back on MI8-MTV heli­copters.

Accommodation

In Bishkek, in a guest house, in Karakol, in a 2 * hotel in dou­ble rooms, in the Mai­da-Adyr base camp in dou­ble cot­tages with beds and bed, in Karkara base camp in dou­ble sta­tion­ary tents with pal­lets and with slabs in the base Inylchek camp in dou­ble sta­tion­ary camp­ing tents, with kare­mat, on wood­en pal­lets.

The camps have elec­tric­i­ty 220V, 50HZ, toi­let, show­er or sauna, satel­lite phone.

Nutrition

In cities, dur­ing relo­ca­tions and in base camps — three meals a day. Dur­ing acclima­ti­za­tion excur­sions and ascents, clients eat their high-alti­tude prod­ucts, which are usu­al for climbers.

It is pos­si­ble to pur­chase high-alti­tude prod­ucts at the base camp upon reser­va­tion.

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