Variants of program Bishkek – Bishkek

 

Variants of the program:

You can choose any suitable variant for you or follow your own program.

Variant 1.

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, flight toOsh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 5-8 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 5-6 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Ascent up to the height of 6400m and descent down to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-10 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 3-4 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”(3700m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is7134 m. Descent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”
Day 20 Drive toOshcity. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport, flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at guesthouse.
Day 22 Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Variant2.

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, flight toOsh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents or yurts.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 5-8 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 5-6 hours and descend to Camp 1. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Rest day . Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Rest day . Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 11 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 12 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400 m) and descend to Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 13 Day of rest in Camp 1. Overnight in tents
Day 14 Day of rest in Camp 1. Overnight in tents
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is7134 m. Descent to the Camp 3
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m). Overnight in base tents
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”. Overnight in base tents
Day 20 Drive toOshcity. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport, flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at guesthouse.
Day 22 Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Description of the route to Lenin peak (7134 m) along

The Western Edge through the Razdel’naya peak from the Lenin glacier

Part “0-1”: «Lukovaya glade» (3800 m) – Camp 1 (4200 m). Walk to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 m) along the good path, 1-1,5 hours. Then descent from the pass to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier (30-40 min.). There is a river that has to be passed early in the morning, while little water. If there is a lot of water (in the evening) there have to be used fixed rope. It takes 4-5 hours.

Part “1-2”: Camp 1 (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300 m). Recommended starting time is 6:00-7:00 am. Walk along the Lenin glacier (steepness is 5-10°). (Note: after snowfall you must move in bunch, because of ice crevasses). Further is steep snow-ice slope (40-45°). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary (1 hour). The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Then gently sloping (15-25°), but moving is only in bunch, somewhere fixed ropes, as there is wide crevasses up to5100 m. 2-3 hours. часа. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Traverse through the snow slope to the right (steepness is 15-20°). Further is table with wide crevasses. 1-2 hours. There is also better to go in bunch. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification), height is5300 m. Pitching up the Camp 2 on the scree slope.

Part “2-3”: Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 2 is not later than 8:00 am. First there is snow-ice slope with crevasses (steepness is 5-10°). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary. 2-3 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Moving along the ridge towards the Razdel’naya peak (6148 m), There is a deep snow as a rule. Traverse of the peak on its left (steepness is up to 50°). 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Camp 3 (61000 m) in the saddle, beyond the Razdel’naya. This place is good for camp, but strong wind at nights, therefore it is advisable to do snow wall.

Part “3-4”: Camp 3 (6100 m) – Camp 4 (6400 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 3 is not later than 9:00 am. First on the steep (30-40°) ice-rocky slope, 2-3 hours. Then along the narrow ridge up to “Nozh” (“Knife”). “Nozh” (“Knife”) passed using fixed ropes. Total time is 2-3 hours. Reach the trough, pitching the Camp 4 (6400 m). The difficulty is 2-4 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5”: Camp 4 (6400 m) – summit (7134 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 4 is not later than 9:00 am. Ascent on the easy rocky ridge (steepness is 15-30°) to the snow plateau (6900-7000 m); 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Further by the snow plateau (steepness is 10-15°) reach the top of theLenin peak; 1,5-2 hours. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification).Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp3 inthe same day. Then to the BC and Achik-Tash. The descent takes 1-2 days, by the ascent route.

 

Good Luck!

 

 

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

Comments are closed.