Variants of program Osh-Osh

 

Variants of the program:

You can choose any suitable variant for you or follow your own program.

Variant 1.

Day 1 Arrival toOsh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 5-8 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 5-6 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Ascent up to the height of 6400m and descent down to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-10 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 3-4 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”(3700m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 11-12 Days of rest.
Day 13 Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 14 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is7134 m. Descent to the Camp 4 (6400-6600 m)
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”
Day 20 Drive toOshcity. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. Departure fromOsh..

Variant 2.

Day 1 Arrival to Osh. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 2 Drive (about 9 hours) to the Achik-Tash grove (3700m), where is a Base Camp. Accommodation in tents.
Day 3 Day at “Achik-Tash”. Acclimatization ascent to the nearest slopes up to height of 4200-4400m. Return to the camp. Preparation of equipment and a food for ascent.
Day 4 After breakfast hiking to the Camp 1 (4200 m), 5-8 hours. Accommodation at the base camp’s tents.
Day 5 Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent.
Day 6 Ascent up to the Camp 2 (5300 m), 8-11 hours. Accommodation in tents.
Day 7 Ascent up to the Camp 3 (6100m), 5-6 hours and descend to Camp 1. Overnight in tents.
Day 8 Rest day . Overnight in tents.
Day 9 Rest day . Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 11 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 12 Ascent to the Camp 4 (6400 m) and descend to Camp 1 (4200 m)
Day 13 Day of rest in Camp 1. Overnight in tents
Day 14 Day of rest in Camp 1. Overnight in tents
Day 15 Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 16 Ascent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Day 17 Ascent up to the top. The height of top is7134 m. Descent to the Camp 3
Day 18 Descent to the Camp 1 (4200 m). Overnight in base tents
Day 19 Descent to the BC “Achik-Tash”. Overnight in base tents
Day 20 Drive toOshcity. Accommodation at the hotel.
Day 21 Transfer to the airport. . Departure fromOsh.

Description of the route to Lenin peak (7134 m) along

The Western Edge through the Razdel’naya peak from the Lenin glacier

Part “0-1”: «Lukovaya glade» (3800 m) – Camp 1 (4200 m). Walk to the Puteshestvennikov pass (4150 m) along the good path, 1-1,5 hours. Then descent from the pass to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier (30-40 min.). There is a river that has to be passed early in the morning, while little water. If there is a lot of water (in the evening) there have to be used fixed rope. It takes 4-5 hours.

Part “1-2”: Camp 1 (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300 m). Recommended starting time is 6:00-7:00 am. Walk along the Lenin glacier (steepness is 5-10°). (Note: after snowfall you must move in bunch, because of ice crevasses). Further is steep snow-ice slope (40-45°). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary (1 hour). The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Then gently sloping (15-25°), but moving is only in bunch, somewhere fixed ropes, as there is wide crevasses up to5100 m. 2-3 hours. часа. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Traverse through the snow slope to the right (steepness is 15-20°). Further is table with wide crevasses. 1-2 hours. There is also better to go in bunch. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification), height is5300 m. Pitching up the Camp 2 on the scree slope.

Part “2-3”: Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 2 is not later than 8:00 am. First there is snow-ice slope with crevasses (steepness is 5-10°). The use of crampons and fixed ropes are necessary. 2-3 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Moving along the ridge towards the Razdel’naya peak (6148 m), There is a deep snow as a rule. Traverse of the peak on its left (steepness is up to 50°). 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 3-4 (UIAA classification). Camp 3 (61000 m) in the saddle, beyond the Razdel’naya. This place is good for camp, but strong wind at nights, therefore it is advisable to do snow wall.

Part “3-4”: Camp 3 (6100 m) – Camp 4 (6400 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 3 is not later than 9:00 am. First on the steep (30-40°) ice-rocky slope, 2-3 hours. Then along the narrow ridge up to “Nozh” (“Knife”). “Nozh” (“Knife”) passed using fixed ropes. Total time is 2-3 hours. Reach the trough, pitching the Camp 4 (6400 m). The difficulty is 2-4 (UIAA classification).

Part “4-5”: Camp 4 (6400 m) – summit (7134 m). Recommended time to start from the Camp 4 is not later than 9:00 am. Ascent on the easy rocky ridge (steepness is 15-30°) to the snow plateau (6900-7000 m); 3-4 hours. The difficulty is 2-3 (UIAA classification). Further by the snow plateau (steepness is 10-15°) reach the top of theLenin peak; 1,5-2 hours. The difficulty is 1-2 (UIAA classification). Descent to the Camp 4 or Camp3 inthe same day. Then to the BC and Achik-Tash. The descent takes 1-2 days, by the ascent route.

 

Good Luck!

 

 

 

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