Ascent to Khan-Tengri from the Southern Inylchek glacier
Season: August 1 — September 30
Height: 7010 m
The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjazski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The largest amount of precipitation falls exactly during summer in the form of snow. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same altitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sary-Djaz turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.
Eastern part of the Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.
Service Package Options
Full package with fixed check-in dates
The program price includes:
• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel — airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (no more then 3 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “North Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “North Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);
• Professional mountaineering guide:
— group of 1–3 pax – 1 guide
— group of 4–6 pax — 1 guide and 1 guide’s assistant
— group of 7–10 pax — 1 guide and 2 guide’s assistants
• Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent!)
• Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set
• High-altitude food (see the list in attachment)
Price doesn’t include:
• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending
Personal equipment for climbing Khan-Tengri peak from the South
1. Backpack — 85 liters
2. Sleeping bag ‑1
3. Sleeping pad – 1
4. Helmet ‑1
5. Harness – 1
6. Carbines — 4
7. Jumar – 1
8. Crampons– 1
9. Repshnur (6–7 mm) – 5 m
10. Ice axe – 1
11. Sun glasses – 1 or 2
12. Torch (headlamp) ‑1 + set of spare batteries
13. Ice screw ‑2
14. Down jacket/parka ‑1
15. Gortex: pants
16. jacket – 1 suit
17. Polartec: jacket 200 ‑1
18. Pants – 1
19. Thermal underwear – 1 suit
20. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)
21. Polartec gloves ‑1
22. Overmitts – 1 + windproof ‑1
23. Warm hat ‑1
24. Balaclava ‑1
25. Warm socks ‑2 pairs
28. Sun protection crèam
29. Figure‑8 descender — 1
30. Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1
31. Avalanche shovel –1
32. High altitude boots — 1
33. Trekking boots ‑1.
33. Folding knife – 1
Full Package Price in USD
The program price includes:
- Meeting and seeing of at the airport or at railway station
— Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night
— Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights
— Accommodation at the Base camps
— Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps
— Consultations on the route
— Fixed ropes along the route
— Radio communication with the BC during the ascent
— Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp (Karkara) to the “Inylchek” BC and back (unlimited transfer of load)
— Douche or sauna at the Base Camps
— Environmental fee for accommodation at the Base Camps,
— Consultations and first aid measures of the doctor
— Medical oxygen in case of an emergency
— Garbage removal by a helicopter
— Wash-hand stand with hot water
— Rescue work registration
— Electric generator for canteen tent lighting and charging of accumulators in the Base Camp
— All necessary permits and papers
— Guide- interpreter on the way and at the Base Camps
Price doesn’t include:
- Additional nights and meal in Bishkek or Karakol
— Satellite phone (by tariff)
— Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes
— Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners
— High-altitude guide’s services
— Porter’s services
— Services in the bar at the Base Camp
— Internet services (Wi-Fi — $ 5 per hour)
Small Packet Price in USD
The program price includes:
- All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)
— Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp (Karkara) and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole, safeguard of territory)
— Using USW-radio stations (walkie-talkie) to contact with the BC
— Route consultation, doctor’s consultation
— Using long distance connection (SW-radio) in emergency cases
— Using fixed ropes
The program of the tour “Climbing Khan-Tengri Peak from the South” (fixed date)
The program of the tour “Climbing Khan-Tengri Peak from the South”
Description of the route to the Khan Tengri peak from the South
Part of the track «0–1»
Walk to the route from the camp on the moraine beneath the Gorky peak and further on along the middle part of the South Inylchek glacier to the confluence with Semenovski glacier. There are less crevasses in the middle part of the glacier than in its edges. It takes 2–4 hours to reach the first camp (altitude — 4300 m). The average steepness is 5–10°. The crevasses usually are opened, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes. The first camp is on the moraine where the two glaciers, Inylchek and Semenovski, meet.
Part of the track «1–2»
The snow covered southern slope of Semenovski glacier is 15–20° steep. The ascent lasts 4–6 hours. After the snowfall there is an avalanche danger. There may be icefalls from the Chapaev peak in the upper part of the ascent. The most dangerous time is between 10:00am and 14:00 pm o’clock. It is desirable to leave the first camp at 3:00–4:00 am so as to finish this section before 10:00 am. Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 1.
Part of the track «2–3»
The icy part of Semenovski glacier is covered with many ice crevasses. The average steepness is 25–40°. There is a danger of icefalls. The use of crampons may be necessary depending on the snow condition. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). The ascent takes 3–5 hours.
Part of the track «3–4»
The upper part of the glacier is shaped like a narrow long mould 5–10° steep. The ascent takes 2–4 hours. The camp can be made in any part of the mould. The difficulty is 1 (UIAA classification). Camp «2» is on the mould (5300–5400 м) or on the crosspiece (5800 м).
Part of the track «4–5»
Climb to the saddle up the snowy slope 30–50° steep. The bergschrund in the lower part of the slope is usually covered with snow. There are convenient places for digging caves in the lower part at the level of the bergschrund. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further on the climb proceeds from the saddle up western side.
Part of the track «5–6»
The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5–10° steep. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steepness is 10–30°. The difficulty is 2–3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5–10 m. The difficulty is 3–4.
Part of the track «6–7»
The rocky ridge 45–55° steep. The difficulty is 3–4 (UIAA classification) at an altitude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents. Camp «3» is located at an altitude somewhere between 6200 м and 6400 m.
Part of the track «7–8»
The rocky ridge 45–55° steep, difficulty 3–4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6750 m begins the major challenge — a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60–80° steep. The difficulty is 3–4 (UIAA classification). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60° steep, with difficulty 4 by UIAA. If it is necessary pitch Camp “4” at altitude 6700 m.
Part of the track «8–9»
After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30–40° steep, with difficulty UIAA – 1–2.
Descent along the ascent path.
Personal and special equipment for climbing Khan-Tengri peak from the South
Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to ‑30 С), high-altitude tent, double plastic mountaineering boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiners, harness, 2–4 ice screws, 4–8 rock climbing hooks, Friends, jumar, 1–2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5–7 balloons), gas burner stove.
Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker (capron, gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T‑shirts, 4 long sleeve shirts, 2–3 sport pants (track pants), 3–4 pairs of cotton socks, 3–4 pairs of wool socks, 3–4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (sintepon or fluff), warm pants (sintepon or fluff), mittens (sintepon or fluff) or gloves (wool or polartec).
More equipment: sun glasses, high mountain sunglasses – 2 pairs , headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lipcare stick„ cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.
Visas. For citizens of the CIS countries and Russia, a visa to Kyrgyzstan is not needed, but a passport or internal passport is needed.
For citizens of Russia and Kazakhstan, registration up to 90 days is not required, for other citizens of the CIS up to 60 days.
Moving is carried out:
«JEEP», «Mitsubishi DELIKA», «UAZ», «Minibus».
In Bishkek, in a guest house, in Karakol, in a 2 * hotel in double rooms, in the Maida-Adyr base camp in double cottages with beds and bed, in Karkara base camp in double stationary tents with pallets and with slabs in the base Inylchek camp in double stationary camping tents, with karemat, on wooden pallets.
The camps have electricity 220V, 50HZ, toilet, shower or sauna, satellite phone.
In cities, during relocations and in base camps — three meals a day. During acclimatization excursions and ascents, clients eat their high-altitude products, which are usual for climbers.
It is possible to purchase high-altitude products at the base camp upon reservation.