Ascent to Khan-Tengri from the Northern Inylchek glacier

Loca­tion: Kyr­gyzs­tan
Sea­son: July 1 — August 30
Deys: 21
Height: 7010 m
Dif­fi­cul­ty:

Tour price: from $890 USD

The knot of the mas­sive ranges Kok­shaal-Too, Merid­ion­al­ni, Sary­d­jazs­ki, Ten­gri-Tag, Inylchek­s­ki and Kaiyindy has the name Muz­tag (The Ice Moun­tain). The cli­mate is sharply con­ti­nen­tal, dry and rig­or­ous. The sum­mer is short, aver­age tem­per­a­ture of about 7 centi­grade. The largest amount of pre­cip­i­ta­tion falls exact­ly dur­ing sum­mer in the form of snow. The region is called “The Arc­tic of Kyr­gyzs­tan”, though Cen­tral Tien-Shan is sit­u­at­ed in the same alti­tude as the Mediter­ranean Sea. The glac­i­ers falling from Muz­tag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its trib­u­taries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sary-Djaz turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to Chi­na to the Tarim val­ley.

East­ern part of the Inylchek glac­i­er is a great ice riv­er 62 km long. The most north­ern, most dif­fi­cult ascent in the world is the sev­en-thou­sander Pobe­da peak (7439 m), which ris­es above the left trib­u­tary of Inylchek glac­i­er – Zvy­oz­dochka glac­i­er. Oppo­site it in the Ten­gri-Tag range the mar­mo­re­al pyra­mid of one of the most beau­ti­ful sum­mits on the earth Khan-Ten­gri peak (7010 m) ris­es as if it soars in the sky.

Gallery

Full package with fixed check-in dates

Num­ber of days: 21
Arrival date: from July 26 to August 15, 2021 year
Cost: $2950 USD per per­son.

The program price includes:

• meet­ing/see­ing-off at the air­port in Bishkek or at rail­way sta­tion in Bishkek;
• trans­fer air­port in Bishkek– hotel — air­port in Bishkek;
• trans­fer Bishkek to heli­copter land­ing spot in Karkara and back;
• heli­copter flight to BC and back;
• unlim­it­ed lug­gage weight on the heli­copter flight to BC and back;
• accom­mo­da­tion in the hotel in Bishkek with break­fast (no more then 3 nights only in total!);
• accom­mo­da­tion in dou­ble tents with full­board at BC “North Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot show­er and sauna, toi­let and cloak-room at BC “North Inylchek“;
• con­sul­tan­cy ser­vice of local guide;
• con­sul­tan­cy of doc­tor;
• reg­is­tra­tion with local Res­cue Par­ty;
• ecol­o­gy fee payable for usage of ter­ri­to­ry at BC;
• usage of long-dis­tance radio telecom­mu­ni­ca­tion ser­vice;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios dur­ing ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• fron­tier zone per­mit;
• offi­cial reg­is­tra­tion with author­i­ties of Kyr­gyzs­tan and visa sup­port let­ter (if need­ed);
• Pro­fes­sion­al moun­taineer­ing guide:
- group of 1–3 pax – 1 guide
- group of 4–6 pax — 1 guide and 1 guide’s assis­tant
- group of 7–10 pax — 1 guide and 2 guide’s assis­tants
• Installed high-alti­tude tents (3 pax in 1 tent!)
• Group moun­taineer­ing equip­ment: ropes (if need­ed), gas car­tridges and gas stoves, cook­ing set
• High-alti­tude food (see the list in attach­ment)

Price doesn’t include:

• The cost of Kyr­gyz visa;
• Inter­na­tion­al flight;
• All option­al devi­a­tions from the main itin­er­ary;
• Bev­er­ages and meals not includ­ed in main menu;
• All per­son­al expens­es (extra lug­gage fee, room ser­vice, med­ical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The ser­vices of a moun­tain guide and porters for ascending/descending

Through­out the route, rails are installed on dif­fi­cult sec­tions, which are updat­ed every sum­mer sea­son!

Personal and special gear to climb Khan-Tengri peak from the North

Equip­ment is not includ­ed in the price of the Full pack­age of ser­vices with fixed dates.

1. Back­pack — 85 liters
2. Sleep­ing bag ‑1
3. Sleep­ing pad – 1
4. Hel­met ‑1
5. Har­ness – 1
6. Car­bines — 4
7. Jumar – 1
8. Cram­pons– 1
9. Repsh­nur (6–7 mm) – 5 m
10. Ice axe – 1
11. Sun glass­es – 1 or 2
12. Torch (head­lamp) ‑1 + set of spare bat­ter­ies

 

13. Ice screw ‑2
14. Down jacket/parka ‑1
15. Gor­tex: pants
16. jack­et – 1 suit
17. Polartec: jack­et 200 ‑1
18. Pants – 1
19. Ther­mal under­wear – 1 suit
20. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jack­et, pants)
21. Polartec gloves ‑1
22. Over­mitts – 1 + wind­proof ‑1
23. Warm hat ‑1

 

24. Bal­a­cla­va ‑1
25. Warm socks ‑2 pairs
26. Socks
27. Gamashi
28. Sun pro­tec­tion crèam
29. Figure‑8 descen­der — 1
30. Tele­scop­ic Sticks (poles). – 1
31. Avalanche shov­el –1
32. High alti­tude boots — 1
33. Trekking boots ‑1.
33. Fold­ing knife – 1

Full package

Num­ber of days: 21
Cost: from $2020 USD per per­son

Full Package Price in USD

Group (per­son)
4–6
7–10
11–15 and more
Per per­son
2220
2090
2020
For the leader
2220
1460
610

The program price includes:

- Meet­ing and see­ing of at the air­port or at rail­way sta­tion
— Trans­fers
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the guest house, 1 night
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the hotel, 2 nights
— Accom­mo­da­tion at the Base camps
— Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps
— Con­sul­ta­tions on the route
— Fixed ropes along the route
— Radio com­mu­ni­ca­tion with the BC dur­ing the ascent
— Heli­copter trans­fer from “Mai­da-Adyr” camp (Karkara) to the “Inylchek” BC and back (unlim­it­ed trans­fer of load)
— Douche or sauna at the Base Camps
— Envi­ron­men­tal fee for accom­mo­da­tion at the Base Camps,
— Con­sul­ta­tions and first aid mea­sures of the doc­tor
— Med­ical oxy­gen in case of an emer­gency
— Garbage removal by a heli­copter
— Wash-hand stand with hot water
— Res­cue work reg­is­tra­tion
— Elec­tric gen­er­a­tor for can­teen tent light­ing and charg­ing of accu­mu­la­tors in the Base Camp
— All nec­es­sary per­mits and papers
— Guide- inter­preter on the way and at the Base Camps

Price doesn’t include:

- Addi­tion­al nights and meal in Bishkek or Karakol
— Satel­lite phone (by tar­iff)
— Meal dur­ing the ascent activ­i­ties and acclima­ti­za­tion hikes
— Insur­ance
— Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burn­ers
— High-alti­tude guide’s ser­vices
— Porter’s ser­vices
— Ser­vices in the bar at the Base Camp
— Inter­net ser­vices (Wi-Fi — $ 5 per hour)

Through­out the route, rails are installed on dif­fi­cult sec­tions, which are updat­ed every sum­mer sea­son!

Small package

Num­ber of days: 22
Cost: from $890 USD per per­son

Small Packet Price in USD

When fly­ing on a pass­ing flight of a heli­copter
Heli­copter (return flight) Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara)– BC – Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara)
Heli­copter one-way, car­go up to 30 kg
With­out heli­copter
Per per­son
1310
1070
890
Pay­ment for excess car­go: $5 USD per 1 kg.

The program price includes:

- All nec­es­sary doc­u­ments (bor­der per­mit, OVIR reg­is­tra­tion)
— Pitch­ing tents on the ter­ri­to­ry of the “Mai­da-Adyr” base camp (Karkara) and “Inylchek” BC (use water, elec­tric­i­ty, toi­let, dust hole, safe­guard of ter­ri­to­ry)
— Using USW-radio sta­tions (walkie-talkie) to con­tact with the BC
— Route con­sul­ta­tion, doctor’s con­sul­ta­tion
— Using long dis­tance con­nec­tion (SW-radio) in emer­gency cas­es
— Using fixed ropes

All expens­es for the res­cue activ­i­ties shall be cov­ered by the client’s insur­ance pol­i­cy. Every client must have amount of insur­ance not less than $30000 USA.
Camp­ing tents and the use of VHF radio com­mu­ni­ca­tion is manda­to­ry.
Through­out the route, rails are installed on dif­fi­cult sec­tions, which are updat­ed every sum­mer sea­son!

The program of the tour “Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from the North” (fixed date)

Day 1
Arrival in Bishkek, accom­mo­da­tion in a hotel.
Day 2
Dri­ve Bishkek – Karkara ( 460 km ), accom­mo­da­tion at the Camp.
Day 3
Fly by heli­copter to BC “North Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4
Acclima­ti­za­tion and prepa­ra­tion for ascent.
Day 5
Acclima­ti­za­tion and prepa­ra­tion for ascent.
Day 6
Camp № 1 . 4200m.
Day 7
Camp № 2 . 5300m.
Day 8
Radi­al hike to Cha­paev Peak.
Day 9
Descend to BC
Day 10
Day of rest and prepa­ra­tion.
Day 11
Day of rest and prepa­ra­tion.
Day 12
Camp № 1.
Day 13
Camp № 3.
Day 14
Ascent of the sum­mit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp № 3.
Day 15
Descent to the base camp.
Day 16
Addi­tion­al day in case of bad weath­er.
Day 17
Addi­tion­al day in case of bad weath­er.
Day 18
Addi­tion­al day in case of bad weath­er.
Day 19
Fly by heli­copter to BC “Karkara” and dri­ve to Bishkek. Accom­mo­da­tion at hotel.
Day 20
Day in Bishkek.
Day 21
Trans­fer to the air­port.

The program of the tour “Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from the North”

Day 1
Meet at air­port. Break­fast. Dri­ve to Karakol city (420 km, 8–10 hours) along the north lake­side of Issyk-Kul lake. Lunch on the way. Accom­mo­da­tion in hotel 2*. Din­ner.
Day 2
After break­fast dri­ve to BC Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara) 160 km, 4–6 hours via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Accom­mo­da­tion in cot­tages (sta­tion­ary tents) of the camp (2500 m).
Day 3
Day at Mai­da-Adyr (Karkara). Acclima­ti­za­tion hike on the ridge of Inylchek-Too range up to 4100–4200 m. Return to the camp.
Day 4
After break­fast heli­copter trans­fer to the Inylchek Base Camp which is sit­u­at­ed at the height of 4000 m in con­flu­ence South Inylchek glac­i­er with Zvez­dochka glac­i­er. Accom­mo­da­tion at the Base Camp’s tents.
Day 5
Acclima­ti­za­tion, prepa­ra­tion to the ascent.
Day 6
Start ear­ly in the morn­ing. Hike up along the glac­i­er under the north-east ridge of Cha­paev peak. Ascent on the ridge up to 4600–4800 m. Camp “1”. Overnight in tents.
Day 7
Ascent to the Camp “2” (5600 m). Camp is in the trough under the cross­piece between Khan-Ten­gri peak and Cha­paev peak. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 8
Ascent to the Camp “3” (5800 m). Camp is on the cross­piece between Khan-Ten­gri peak and Cha­paev peak. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 9
Acclima­ti­za­tion ascent up to 6200–6400 m, descent to the cross­piece. Overnight in tents or in a cave.
Day 10
Descent to the BC.
Day 11
Day of rest.
Day 12
In the after­noon ascent up to the Camp 1 (4600–4800 м).
Day 13
Start ear­ly in the morn­ing and ascent to the cross­piece. Camp (5800 m).
Day 14
Ascent up to the Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight.
Day 15
Descent up to 6400 m or to the cross­piece (5800 m).
Day 16
Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 17
Reserve day.
Day 18
Heli­copter trans­fer to the Mai­da-Adyr camp (Karkara). Rest. Sauna.
Day 19
Trans­fer to Karakol. Accom­mo­da­tion at the hotel 2*.
Day 20
Trans­fer to Bishkek along the South shore of the Issyk-Kul lake. Accom­mo­da­tion at the guest-house.
Day 21
Trans­fer to the air­port. Fly home.

Description of the route to the Khan Tengri peak from the North

Part of the track «0–1»

Walk to the route from the base camp on along the North Inylchek glac­i­er to the foot of the North­east slope of Cha­paev peak. It takes 1 hour. The crevass­es usu­al­ly are opened, but the snow­fall may cov­er them, so it is desir­able to move on the glac­i­er in ropes.

Part of the track «1–2»

The icy-snow slope is up to 45° steep, 700 m. Tra­vers to the left 100m along snow shelf to the North-east edge. Exit to a flat area along snow ridge. Camp “1” (4600–4800 m). Dif­fi­cul­ty accord­ing to the UIAA clas­si­fi­ca­tion is 2–4.

Part of the track «2–3»

Tra­verse on the hor­i­zon­tal shelf 40 m. Climb to the snow ridge of the North-east edge up snowy-ice wall, 50 m. Climb to the flat slopes up the snowy ridge and snowy slope, 200 m. Then on the snowy-ice wall and ridge climb to the slopes, 300 m. Fur­ther climb to the rocks up rocky wall cov­ered with snow and ice, 200 m. On the right part of the snowy rock and “sheep­’s fore­heads” climb up snow ridge, 150 m. Then on snow ridge and rocks, 350 m. Climb to the plateau of the north-east edge up the right part of the rock wall, 100 m. Tra­vers to the right, 200 m. Camp “2”. Overnight in tents or in cave.

Part of the track «3–4»

Walk up under the rocks from the Camp “2” on along the snow ridge (200 m) and firn slope (200 m). Climb on the rock wall (40 m) and then on rock slope, alter­nat­ing ice and snow parts (400 m) to the shoul­der of the Cha­paev peak (6100 m). Descent to the cross­piece on the snow range from the shoul­der. Camp “3” (5800 m). Tents or cave. Dif­fi­cul­ty accord­ing to the UIAA clas­si­fi­ca­tion is 2–4.

Part of the track «4–5»

The begin­ning is a wide snow ridge with lit­tle rock 5–10° steep. The dif­fi­cul­ty is 2 (UIAA clas­si­fi­ca­tion). Fur­ther up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steep­ness is 10–30°. The dif­fi­cul­ty is 2–3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at alti­tudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5–10 m. The dif­fi­cul­ty is 3–4.

Part of the track «5–6»

The rocky ridge 45–55° steep. The dif­fi­cul­ty is 3–4 (UIAA clas­si­fi­ca­tion) at an alti­tude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents. Camp “3” (6200 m or 6400 m). Dif­fi­cul­ty 1–4 by UIAA.

Part of the track «6–7»

The rocky ridge 45–55° steep, dif­fi­cul­ty 3–4, up to an alti­tude of 6650 m. At the alti­tude of 6750 m begins the major chal­lenge — a tech­ni­cal­ly dif­fi­cult but­tress, 150 m high, 60–80° steep. The dif­fi­cul­ty is 3–4 (UIAA clas­si­fi­ca­tion). In the mid­dle of the but­tress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60° steep, with dif­fi­cul­ty 4 by UIAA. If it is nec­es­sary pitch Camp “4” at alti­tude 6700 m.

Part of the track «7–8»

After the but­tress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30–40° steep, with dif­fi­cul­ty 1–2 by UIAA.
Through­out the route, fix ropes are installed on dif­fi­cult areas, which are updat­ed every sum­mer sea­son!

Descent

Descent along the ascent path.

Personal and special equipment for climbing Khan-Tengri peak from the North

Equip­ment is not includ­ed in the price of Small and Full ser­vice pack­ages

Spe­cial gear: back­pack (not less than 80 liters), sleep­ing pad, sleep­ing bag (up to ‑30 С), high-alti­tude tent, dou­ble plas­tic moun­taineer­ing boots, cram­pons, ice-axe, cara­bin­ers, har­ness, 2–4 ice screws, 4–8 rock climb­ing hooks, Friends, jumar, 1–2 ropes (5 m long), hel­met, camp­ing gas (5–7 bal­loons), gas burn­er stove.

Per­son­al things: jack­et-wind­break­er and pants-wind­break­er (capron, gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or wind­blok), T‑shirts, 4 long sleeve shirts, 2–3 sport pants (track pants), 3–4 pairs of cot­ton socks, 3–4 pairs of wool socks, 3–4 sets of under­wear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jack­et (sin­tepon or fluff), warm pants (sin­tepon or fluff), mit­tens (sin­tepon or fluff) or gloves (wool or polartec).

More equip­ment: sun glass­es, high moun­tain sun­glass­es – 2 pairs , head­lamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip­care stick„ cup, spoon, bowl, knife, tow­el, soap, tooth brush and paste, per­son­al first aid kit.

Additional Information

Required documents

Visas. For cit­i­zens of the CIS coun­tries and Rus­sia, a visa to Kyr­gyzs­tan is not need­ed, but a pass­port or inter­nal pass­port is need­ed.

For cit­i­zens of Rus­sia and Kaza­khstan, reg­is­tra­tion up to 90 days is not required, for oth­er cit­i­zens of the CIS up to 60 days.

Transport

Mov­ing is car­ried out:

«JEEP», «Mit­subishi DELIKA», «UAZ», «Minibus».

Accommodation

In Bishkek, in a guest house, in Karakol, in a 2 * hotel in dou­ble rooms, in the Mai­da-Adyr base camp in dou­ble cot­tages with beds and bed, in Karkara base camp in dou­ble sta­tion­ary tents with pal­lets and with slabs in the base Inylchek camp in dou­ble sta­tion­ary camp­ing tents, with kare­mat, on wood­en pal­lets.

The camps have elec­tric­i­ty 220V, 50HZ, toi­let, show­er or sauna, satel­lite phone.

Nutrition

In cities, dur­ing relo­ca­tions and in base camps — three meals a day. Dur­ing acclima­ti­za­tion excur­sions and ascents, clients eat their high-alti­tude prod­ucts, which are usu­al for climbers.

It is pos­si­ble to pur­chase high-alti­tude prod­ucts at the base camp upon reser­va­tion.

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