Ascent to Khan-Tengri from the Northern Inylchek glacier
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Season: July 1 — August 30
Deys: 21
Height: 7010 m
Difficulty: 5А
The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjazski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The largest amount of precipitation falls exactly during summer in the form of snow. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same altitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sari-Dzhas and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sary-Djaz turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.
Eastern part of the Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.
Service Package Options
Full package with fixed check-in dates
• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel — airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (no more then 3 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “North Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “North Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);
• Professional mountaineering guide:
— group of 1–3 pax – 1 guide
— group of 4–6 pax — 1 guide and 1 guide’s assistant
— group of 7–10 pax — 1 guide and 2 guide’s assistants
• Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent!)
• Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set
• High-altitude food (see the list in attachment)
The program price includes:
Price doesn’t include:
• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending
Personal and special gear to climb Khan-Tengri peak from the North
1. Backpack — 85 liters
2. Sleeping bag ‑1
3. Sleeping pad – 1
4. Helmet ‑1
5. Harness – 1
6. Carbines — 4
7. Jumar – 1
8. Crampons– 1
9. Repshnur (6–7 mm) – 5 m
10. Ice axe – 1
11. Sun glasses – 1 or 2
12. Torch (headlamp) ‑1 + set of spare batteries
13. Ice screw ‑2
14. Down jacket/parka ‑1
15. Gortex: pants
16. jacket – 1 suit
17. Polartec: jacket 200 ‑1
18. Pants – 1
19. Thermal underwear – 1 suit
20. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)
21. Polartec gloves ‑1
22. Overmitts – 1 + windproof ‑1
23. Warm hat ‑1
24. Balaclava ‑1
25. Warm socks ‑2 pairs
26. Socks
27. Gamashi
28. Sun protection crèam
29. Figure‑8 descender — 1
30. Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1
31. Avalanche shovel –1
32. High altitude boots — 1
33. Trekking boots ‑1.
33. Folding knife – 1
Full package
Full Package Price in USD
Per person
2280
1950
The program price includes:
- Meeting and seeing of at the airport or at railway station
— Transfers
— Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night
— Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights
— Accommodation at the Base camps
— Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps
— Consultations on the route
— Fixed ropes along the route
— Radio communication with the BC during the ascent
— Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp (Karkara) to the “Inylchek” BC and back (unlimited transfer of load)
— Douche or sauna at the Base Camps
— Environmental fee for accommodation at the Base Camps,
— Consultations and first aid measures of the doctor
— Medical oxygen in case of an emergency
— Garbage removal by a helicopter
— Wash-hand stand with hot water
— Rescue work registration
— Electric generator for canteen tent lighting and charging of accumulators in the Base Camp
— All necessary permits and papers
— Guide- interpreter on the way and at the Base Camps
Price doesn’t include:
- Additional nights and meal in Bishkek or Karakol
— Satellite phone (by tariff)
— Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes
— Insurance
— Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners
— High-altitude guide’s services
— Porter’s services
— Services in the bar at the Base Camp
— Internet services (Wi-Fi — $ 5 per hour)
Small package
Small Packet Price in USD
1350
950
The program price includes:
- All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)
— Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp (Karkara) and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole, safeguard of territory)
— Using USW-radio stations (walkie-talkie) to contact with the BC
— Route consultation, doctor’s consultation
— Using long distance connection (SW-radio) in emergency cases
— Using fixed ropes
The program of the tour “Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from the North” (fixed date)
The program of the tour “Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from the North”
Description of the route to the Khan Tengri peak from the North
Part of the track «0–1»
Walk to the route from the base camp on along the North Inylchek glacier to the foot of the Northeast slope of Chapaev peak. It takes 1 hour. The crevasses usually are opened, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes.
Part of the track «1–2»
The icy-snow slope is up to 45° steep, 700 m. Travers to the left 100m along snow shelf to the North-east edge. Exit to a flat area along snow ridge. Camp “1” (4600–4800 m). Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2–4.
Part of the track «2–3»
Traverse on the horizontal shelf 40 m. Climb to the snow ridge of the North-east edge up snowy-ice wall, 50 m. Climb to the flat slopes up the snowy ridge and snowy slope, 200 m. Then on the snowy-ice wall and ridge climb to the slopes, 300 m. Further climb to the rocks up rocky wall covered with snow and ice, 200 m. On the right part of the snowy rock and “sheep’s foreheads” climb up snow ridge, 150 m. Then on snow ridge and rocks, 350 m. Climb to the plateau of the north-east edge up the right part of the rock wall, 100 m. Travers to the right, 200 m. Camp “2”. Overnight in tents or in cave.
Part of the track «3–4»
Walk up under the rocks from the Camp “2” on along the snow ridge (200 m) and firn slope (200 m). Climb on the rock wall (40 m) and then on rock slope, alternating ice and snow parts (400 m) to the shoulder of the Chapaev peak (6100 m). Descent to the crosspiece on the snow range from the shoulder. Camp “3” (5800 m). Tents or cave. Difficulty according to the UIAA classification is 2–4.
Part of the track «4–5»
The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5–10° steep. The difficulty is 2 (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small snowy areas. Steepness is 10–30°. The difficulty is 2–3 by UIAA. There are many places for places for putting up tents at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5–10 m. The difficulty is 3–4.
Part of the track «5–6»
The rocky ridge 45–55° steep. The difficulty is 3–4 (UIAA classification) at an altitude of 6400 m there are places for 4 tents. Camp “3” (6200 m or 6400 m). Difficulty 1–4 by UIAA.
Part of the track «6–7»
The rocky ridge 45–55° steep, difficulty 3–4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6750 m begins the major challenge — a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60–80° steep. The difficulty is 3–4 (UIAA classification). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60° steep, with difficulty 4 by UIAA. If it is necessary pitch Camp “4” at altitude 6700 m.
Part of the track «7–8»
After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30–40° steep, with difficulty 1–2 by UIAA.
Throughout the route, fix ropes are installed on difficult areas, which are updated every summer season!
Descent
Descent along the ascent path.
Personal and special equipment for climbing Khan-Tengri peak from the North
Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to ‑30 С), high-altitude tent, double plastic mountaineering boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiners, harness, 2–4 ice screws, 4–8 rock climbing hooks, Friends, jumar, 1–2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (5–7 balloons), gas burner stove.
Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker (capron, gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T‑shirts, 4 long sleeve shirts, 2–3 sport pants (track pants), 3–4 pairs of cotton socks, 3–4 pairs of wool socks, 3–4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (sintepon or fluff), warm pants (sintepon or fluff), mittens (sintepon or fluff) or gloves (wool or polartec).
More equipment: sun glasses, high mountain sunglasses – 2 pairs , headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lipcare stick„ cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.
Additional Information
Required documents
Visas. For citizens of the CIS countries and Russia, a visa to Kyrgyzstan is not needed, but a passport or internal passport is needed.
For citizens of Russia and Kazakhstan, registration up to 90 days is not required, for other citizens of the CIS up to 60 days.
Transport
Moving is carried out:
«JEEP», «Mitsubishi DELIKA», «UAZ», «Minibus».
Accommodation
In Bishkek, in a guest house, in Karakol, in a 2 * hotel in double rooms, in the Maida-Adyr base camp in double cottages with beds and bed, in Karkara base camp in double stationary tents with pallets and with slabs in the base Inylchek camp in double stationary camping tents, with karemat, on wooden pallets.
The camps have electricity 220V, 50HZ, toilet, shower or sauna, satellite phone.
Nutrition
In cities, during relocations and in base camps — three meals a day. During acclimatization excursions and ascents, clients eat their high-altitude products, which are usual for climbers.
It is possible to purchase high-altitude products at the base camp upon reservation.
