Pobeda Peak
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Season: July 1 — August 30
Deys: 26
Height: 7439 м
Difficulty: 5B
from $2280 USD per person.
from $1350 USD per person.
The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too, Meridionalni, Sarydjaski, Tengri-Tag, Inylchekski and Kaiyindy has the name Muztag (The Ice Mountain). The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called “The Arctic of Kyrgyzstan”, though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Muztag to the west make full rivers Sary-Djaz and its tributaries Inylchek and Kaiyindy. Then Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley.
Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m), which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier – Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite it in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of the most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) rises as if it soars in the sky.
The program of the tour “Climbing the Pobeda Peak”
The price of the Full package “Climbing Pobeda Peak” in USD
Per person
$2280
$1950
The program price includes:
- Transfers
— Accommodation at the guest house, 1 night
— Accommodation at the hotel, 2 nights
— Accommodation at the Base camps
— Meals on the way, in towns and at the Base Camps
— Consultations on the route
— Fixed ropes along the route
— Radio communication with the BC during the ascent
— Helicopter transfer from “Maida-Adyr” camp to the “Inylchek” BC and back,
— Douche or sauna at the Base Camps
— All necessary permits and papers
Price doesn’t include:
- Satellite phone (by tariff)
— Meal during the ascent activities and acclimatization hikes
— Insurance
— Fuel (gas, petrol) for stoves and gas burners
— Porter’s services
— High-altitude guide’s
— Internet services (Wi-Fi — $ 5 per hour)
The price of the Small package “Climbing Pobeda Peak” (doesn’t depend on number of person in a group) in USD
Per person
$1350
$950
The program price includes:
- All necessary documents (border permit, OVIR registration)
— Pitching tents on the territory of the “Maida-Adyr” base camp and “Inylchek” BC (use water, electricity, toilet, dust hole, safeguard of territory)
— Using USW-radio stations to contact with the Base Camp
— Route consultation, doctor consultation
— Using long distant radio connection in case of emergency
— Using fixed ropes
Description of the route to Pobedy peak (7439 m) along the western ridge through Lane Wild and Peak Pobeda West
Part of the track «0–1»
From the Base camp beneath the Gorklj peak the group crosses the South Inilchek glacier towards the Zvezdochka glacier. Walk along Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier) the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp is on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the Camp “1” on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5–10 hours, depends on group’s preparedness. Altitude is 4400 m.
Part of the track «1–2»
Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2–4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5–10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30–40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents (Camp “2”, 5200 m). The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high. So it is better to start from the camp 1 as early as possible. Difficulty is 2–4 by UIAA.
Part of the track «2–3»
From the Camp “2” (Dikij pass) a walk up the wide snow ridge to the Camp “3”, which is near the rock walls. Altitude is 5900 m — 6000 m. Overnight in tents or in cave. There is an avalanche danger when heavy snowfall! Difficulty by UIAA – 2.
Part of the track «3–4»
5900–6700 m — ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3–4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2–3 class. The steepness of the ridge is 30–40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000–6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m (Camp “4”). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances. Difficulty is 3–4 by UIAA.
Part of the track «4–5»
From the Camp “4”, higher the black rock triangle the group ascends to the peak Western Pobeda (6918 m) in 4–8 hours, the steepness is 15–20 degrees, and class of difficulty is 2–3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “5” (6900 m). Difficulty is 4–5 by UIAA.
Part of the track «5–6»
From Western Pobeda (6918 m) to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4–6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould you can take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole. Camp “6” (7100 m). Difficulty is 1 by UIAA.
Part of the track «6–7»
After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200–300 m; 3 class of difficulty), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steepness of 20–40 degrees the group gets to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200–250 m, where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western side leave a note in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East — in the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4–8 hours walk. Difficulty is 2–3 by UIAA.
Descent along the ascent path
Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weather and other circumstances.
Personal and special gear to climb Pobeda Peak
Special gear: backpack (not less than 80 liters), sleeping pad, sleeping bag (up to ‑30 С), high-altitude tent, plastic double boots, crampons, ice-axe, carabiner, harness, 4–5 ice screws, 5–10 hardware, Friends, jumar, 1–2 ropes (5 m long), helmet, camping gas (7–9 balloons), head burner.
Personal things: jacket-windbreaker and pants-windbreaker (капрон, gore-tex), warm sweater (wool, polartec 300 or windblok), T‑shirts, 4 shirts, 2–3 sport pants (track pants), 3–4 pairs of cotton socks, 3–4 pairs of wool socks, 3–4 sets of underwear, sun cap, wool or polartec cap, warm jacket (down parka), warm pants, mittens or gloves (wool or polartec).
More equipment: sun glasses – 2 pairs headlamp, sun mask, sun block cream, lip care stick, cup, spoon, bowl, knife, towel, soap, tooth brush and paste, personal first aid kit.
Additional Information
Required documents
Visas. For citizens of the CIS countries (except Turkmenistan) a visa to Kyrgyzstan is not needed, but a passport is required. For citizens of Russia, a visa is also not required, the passport is suitable for both foreign and general civilian (internal). Upon arrival in Kyrgyzstan, tourists from the CIS must register with the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
For citizens of Russia and Kazakhstan, registration up to 90 days is not required, for other citizens of the CIS up to 60 days.
Transport
Moving is carried out:
From Bishkek to Karakol and back in comfortable cars, minibuses or buses, depending on the number of people in the group; from Karakol to the base camp of Maida-Adyr and back on all-wheel drive vehicles Niva, UAZ 452, URAL-Vakhta, KAMAZ-Vakhta or GAZ-66-Vakhta. Flight from the Maida-Adyr base camp to the Inylchek base camp and back on MI8-MTV helicopters.
Accommodation
In Bishkek, in a guest house, in Karakol, in a 2 * hotel in double rooms, in the Maida-Adyr base camp in double cottages with beds and bed, in Karkara base camp in double stationary tents with pallets and with slabs in the base Inylchek camp in double stationary camping tents, with karemat, on wooden pallets.
The camps have electricity 220V, 50HZ, toilet, shower or sauna, satellite phone.
Nutrition
In cities, during relocations and in base camps — three meals a day. During acclimatization excursions and ascents, clients eat their high-altitude products, which are usual for climbers.
It is possible to purchase high-altitude products at the base camp upon reservation.
